Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

Arctic condition a mile off, would steam again. By such ways and

means, I would come to the cluster of chalets where I had to turn

out of the track to see the waterfall; and then, uttering a howl

like a young giant, on espying a traveller – in other words,

something to eat – coming up the steep, the idiot lying on the

wood-pile who sunned himself and nursed his goitre, would rouse the

woman-guide within the hut, who would stream out hastily, throwing

her child over one of her shoulders and her goitre over the other,

as she came along. I slept at religious houses, and bleak refuges

of many kinds, on this journey, and by the stove at night heard

stories of travellers who had perished within call, in wreaths and

drifts of snow. One night the stove within, and the cold outside,

awakened childish associations long forgotten, and I dreamed I was

in Russia – the identical serf out of a picture-book I had, before

I could read it for myself – and that I was going to be knouted by

a noble personage in a fur cap, boots, and earrings, who, I think,

must have come out of some melodrama.

Commend me to the beautiful waters among these mountains! Though I

was not of their mind: they, being inveterately bent on getting

down into the level country, and I ardently desiring to linger

where I was. What desperate leaps they took, what dark abysses

they plunged into, what rocks they wore away, what echoes they

invoked! In one part where I went, they were pressed into the

service of carrying wood down, to be burnt next winter, as costly

fuel, in Italy. But, their fierce savage nature was not to be

easily constrained, and they fought with every limb of the wood;

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Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

whirling it round and round, stripping its bark away, dashing it

against pointed corners, driving it out of the course, and roaring

and flying at the peasants who steered it back again from the bank

with long stout poles. Alas! concurrent streams of time and water

carried ME down fast, and I came, on an exquisitely clear day, to

the Lausanne shore of the Lake of Geneva, where I stood looking at

the bright blue water, the flushed white mountains opposite, and

the boats at my feet with their furled Mediterranean sails, showing

like enormous magnifications of this goose-quill pen that is now in

my hand.

– The sky became overcast without any notice; a wind very like the

March east wind of England, blew across me; and a voice said, ‘How

do you like it? Will it do?’

I had merely shut myself, for half a minute, in a German travelling

chariot that stood for sale in the Carriage Department of the

London Pantechnicon. I had a commission to buy it, for a friend

who was going abroad; and the look and manner of the chariot, as I

tried the cushions and the springs, brought all these hints of

travelling remembrance before me.

‘It will do very well,’ said I, rather sorrowfully, as I got out at

the other door, and shut the carriage up.

CHAPTER VIII – THE GREAT TASMANIA’S CARGO

I travel constantly, up and down a certain line of railway that has

a terminus in London. It is the railway for a large military

depot, and for other large barracks. To the best of my serious

belief, I have never been on that railway by daylight, without

seeing some handcuffed deserters in the train.

It is in the nature of things that such an institution as our

English army should have many bad and troublesome characters in it.

But, this is a reason for, and not against, its being made as

acceptable as possible to well-disposed men of decent behaviour.

Such men are assuredly not tempted into the ranks, by the beastly

inversion of natural laws, and the compulsion to live in worse than

swinish foulness. Accordingly, when any such Circumlocutional

embellishments of the soldier’s condition have of late been brought

to notice, we civilians, seated in outer darkness cheerfully

meditating on an Income Tax, have considered the matter as being

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