Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

aware of a furtive head peering out of a doorway a few yards before

him, and, coming up with the head, would find a man standing bolt

upright to keep within the doorway’s shadow, and evidently intent

upon no particular service to society. Under a kind of

fascination, and in a ghostly silence suitable to the time,

Houselessness and this gentleman would eye one another from head to

foot, and so, without exchange of speech, part, mutually

suspicious. Drip, drip, drip, from ledge and coping, splash from

pipes and water-spouts, and by-and-by the houseless shadow would

fall upon the stones that pave the way to Waterloo-bridge; it being

in the houseless mind to have a halfpenny worth of excuse for

saying ‘Good-night’ to the toll-keeper, and catching a glimpse of

his fire. A good fire and a good great-coat and a good woollen

neck-shawl, were comfortable things to see in conjunction with the

toll-keeper; also his brisk wakefulness was excellent company when

he rattled the change of halfpence down upon that metal table of

his, like a man who defied the night, with all its sorrowful

thoughts, and didn’t care for the coming of dawn. There was need

of encouragement on the threshold of the bridge, for the bridge was

dreary. The chopped-up murdered man, had not been lowered with a

rope over the parapet when those nights were; he was alive, and

slept then quietly enough most likely, and undisturbed by any dream

of where he was to come. But the river had an awful look, the

buildings on the banks were muffled in black shrouds, and the

reflected lights seemed to originate deep in the water, as if the

spectres of suicides were holding them to show where they went

down. The wild moon and clouds were as restless as an evil

conscience in a tumbled bed, and the very shadow of the immensity

of London seemed to lie oppressively upon the river.

Between the bridge and the two great theatres, there was but the

distance of a few hundred paces, so the theatres came next. Grim

and black within, at night, those great dry Wells, and lonesome to

imagine, with the rows of faces faded out, the lights extinguished,

and the seats all empty. One would think that nothing in them knew

itself at such a time but Yorick’s skull. In one of my night

walks, as the church steeples were shaking the March winds and rain

with the strokes of Four, I passed the outer boundary of one of

these great deserts, and entered it. With a dim lantern in my

hand, I groped my well-known way to the stage and looked over the

orchestra – which was like a great grave dug for a time of

pestilence – into the void beyond. A dismal cavern of an immense

aspect, with the chandelier gone dead like everything else, and

nothing visible through mist and fog and space, but tiers of

winding-sheets. The ground at my feet where, when last there, I

had seen the peasantry of Naples dancing among the vines, reckless

of the burning mountain which threatened to overwhelm them, was now

in possession of a strong serpent of engine-hose, watchfully lying

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Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

in wait for the serpent Fire, and ready to fly at it if it showed

its forked tongue. A ghost of a watchman, carrying a faint corpse

candle, haunted the distant upper gallery and flitted away.

Retiring within the proscenium, and holding my light above my head

towards the rolled-up curtain – green no more, but black as ebony –

my sight lost itself in a gloomy vault, showing faint indications

in it of a shipwreck of canvas and cordage. Methought I felt much

as a diver might, at the bottom of the sea.

In those small hours when there was no movement in the streets, it

afforded matter for reflection to take Newgate in the way, and,

touching its rough stone, to think of the prisoners in their sleep,

and then to glance in at the lodge over the spiked wicket, and see

the fire and light of the watching turnkeys, on the white wall.

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