Dickens, Charles – Pictures from Italy

away at a good round pace. ‘When will it be put in the pit?’ I

asked him. ‘When the cart comes, and it is opened to-night,’ he

said. ‘How much does it cost to be brought here in this way,

instead of coming in the cart?’ I asked him. ‘Ten scudi,’ he said

(about two pounds, two-and-sixpence, English). ‘The other bodies,

for whom nothing is paid, are taken to the church of the Santa

Maria della Consolazione,’ he continued, ‘and brought here

altogether, in the cart at night.’ I stood, a moment, looking at

the coffin, which had two initial letters scrawled upon the top;

and turned away, with an expression in my face, I suppose, of not

much liking its exposure in that manner: for he said, shrugging

his shoulders with great vivacity, and giving a pleasant smile,

‘But he’s dead, Signore, he’s dead. Why not?’

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Dickens, Charles – Pictures From Italy

Among the innumerable churches, there is one I must select for

separate mention. It is the church of the Ara Coeli, supposed to

be built on the site of the old Temple of Jupiter Feretrius; and

approached, on one side, by a long steep flight of steps, which

seem incomplete without some group of bearded soothsayers on the

top. It is remarkable for the possession of a miraculous Bambino,

or wooden doll, representing the Infant Saviour; and I first saw

this miraculous Bambino, in legal phrase, in manner following, that

is to say:

We had strolled into the church one afternoon, and were looking

down its long vista of gloomy pillars (for all these ancient

churches built upon the ruins of old temples, are dark and sad),

when the Brave came running in, with a grin upon his face that

stretched it from ear to ear, and implored us to follow him,

without a moment’s delay, as they were going to show the Bambino to

a select party. We accordingly hurried off to a sort of chapel, or

sacristy, hard by the chief altar, but not in the church itself,

where the select party, consisting of two or three Catholic

gentlemen and ladies (not Italians), were already assembled: and

where one hollow-cheeked young monk was lighting up divers candles,

while another was putting on some clerical robes over his coarse

brown habit. The candles were on a kind of altar, and above it

were two delectable figures, such as you would see at any English

fair, representing the Holy Virgin, and Saint Joseph, as I suppose,

bending in devotion over a wooden box, or coffer; which was shut.

The hollow-cheeked monk, number One, having finished lighting the

candles, went down on his knees, in a corner, before this setpiece;

and the monk number Two, having put on a pair of highly

ornamented and gold-bespattered gloves, lifted down the coffer,

with great reverence, and set it on the altar. Then, with many

genuflexions, and muttering certain prayers, he opened it, and let

down the front, and took off sundry coverings of satin and lace

from the inside. The ladies had been on their knees from the

commencement; and the gentlemen now dropped down devoutly, as he

exposed to view a little wooden doll, in face very like General Tom

Thumb, the American Dwarf: gorgeously dressed in satin and gold

lace, and actually blazing with rich jewels. There was scarcely a

spot upon its little breast, or neck, or stomach, but was sparkling

with the costly offerings of the Faithful. Presently, he lifted it

out of the box, and carrying it round among the kneelers, set its

face against the forehead of every one, and tendered its clumsy

foot to them to kiss – a ceremony which they all performed down to

a dirty little ragamuffin of a boy who had walked in from the

street. When this was done, he laid it in the box again: and the

company, rising, drew near, and commended the jewels in whispers.

In good time, he replaced the coverings, shut up the box, put it

back in its place, locked up the whole concern (Holy Family and

all) behind a pair of folding-doors; took off his priestly

vestments; and received the customary ‘small charge,’ while his

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