Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

of such reproach? Ah! Almost prophetic, surely, the child’s

jingle:

When will that be,

Say the bells of Step-ney!

CHAPTER XXII – BOUND FOR THE GREAT SALT LAKE

Page 136

Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

Behold me on my way to an Emigrant Ship, on a hot morning early in

June. My road lies through that part of London generally known to

the initiated as ‘Down by the Docks.’ Down by the Docks, is home

to a good many people – to too many, if I may judge from the

overflow of local population in the streets – but my nose

insinuates that the number to whom it is Sweet Home might be easily

counted. Down by the Docks, is a region I would choose as my point

of embarkation aboard ship if I were an emigrant. It would present

my intention to me in such a sensible light; it would show me so

many things to be run away from.

Down by the Docks, they eat the largest oysters and scatter the

roughest oyster-shells, known to the descendants of Saint George

and the Dragon. Down by the Docks, they consume the slimiest of

shell-fish, which seem to have been scraped off the copper bottoms

of ships. Down by the Docks, the vegetables at green-grocers’

doors acquire a saline and a scaly look, as if they had been

crossed with fish and seaweed. Down by the Docks, they ‘board

seamen’ at the eating-houses, the public-houses, the slop-shops,

the coffee-shops, the tally-shops, all kinds of shops mentionable

and unmentionable – board them, as it were, in the piratical sense,

making them bleed terribly, and giving no quarter. Down by the

Docks, the seamen roam in mid-street and mid-day, their pockets

inside out, and their heads no better. Down by the Docks, the

daughters of wave-ruling Britannia also rove, clad in silken

attire, with uncovered tresses streaming in the breeze, bandanna

kerchiefs floating from their shoulders, and crinoline not wanting.

Down by the Docks, you may hear the Incomparable Joe Jackson sing

the Standard of England, with a hornpipe, any night; or any day may

see at the waxwork, for a penny and no waiting, him as killed the

policeman at Acton and suffered for it. Down by the Docks, you may

buy polonies, saveloys, and sausage preparations various, if you

are not particular what they are made of besides seasoning. Down

by the Docks, the children of Israel creep into any gloomy cribs

and entries they can hire, and hang slops there – pewter watches,

sou’-wester hats, waterproof overalls – ‘firtht rate articleth,

Thjack.’ Down by the Docks, such dealers exhibiting on a frame a

complete nautical suit without the refinement of a waxen visage in

the hat, present the imaginary wearer as drooping at the yard-arm,

with his seafaring and earthfaring troubles over. Down by the

Docks, the placards in the shops apostrophise the customer, knowing

him familiarly beforehand, as, ‘Look here, Jack!’ ‘Here’s your

sort, my lad!’ ‘Try our sea-going mixed, at two and nine!’ ‘The

right kit for the British tar!’ ‘Ship ahoy!’ ‘Splice the mainbrace,

brother!’ ‘Come, cheer up, my lads. We’ve the best liquors

here, And you’ll find something new In our wonderful Beer!’ Down

by the Docks, the pawnbroker lends money on Union-Jack pockethandkerchiefs,

on watches with little ships pitching fore and aft

on the dial, on telescopes, nautical instruments in cases, and

such-like. Down by the Docks, the apothecary sets up in business

on the wretchedest scale – chiefly on lint and plaster for the

strapping of wounds – and with no bright bottles, and with no

little drawers. Down by the Docks, the shabby undertaker’s shop

will bury you for next to nothing, after the Malay or Chinaman has

stabbed you for nothing at all: so you can hardly hope to make a

cheaper end. Down by the Docks, anybody drunk will quarrel with

anybody drunk or sober, and everybody else will have a hand in it,

and on the shortest notice you may revolve in a whirlpool of red

shirts, shaggy beards, wild heads of hair, bare tattooed arms,

Britannia’s daughters, malice, mud, maundering, and madness. Down

by the Docks, scraping fiddles go in the public-houses all day

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