Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

long, and, shrill above their din and all the din, rises the

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screeching of innumerable parrots brought from foreign parts, who

appear to be very much astonished by what they find on these native

shores of ours. Possibly the parrots don’t know, possibly they do,

that Down by the Docks is the road to the Pacific Ocean, with its

lovely islands, where the savage girls plait flowers, and the

savage boys carve cocoa-nut shells, and the grim blind idols muse

in their shady groves to exactly the same purpose as the priests

and chiefs. And possibly the parrots don’t know, possibly they do,

that the noble savage is a wearisome impostor wherever he is, and

has five hundred thousand volumes of indifferent rhyme, and no

reason, to answer for.

Shadwell church! Pleasant whispers of there being a fresher air

down the river than down by the Docks, go pursuing one another,

playfully, in and out of the openings in its spire. Gigantic in

the basin just beyond the church, looms my Emigrant Ship: her

name, the Amazon. Her figure-head is not disfigured as those

beauteous founders of the race of strong-minded women are fabled to

have been, for the convenience of drawing the bow; but I sympathise

with the carver:

A flattering carver who made it his care

To carve busts as they ought to be – not as they were.

My Emigrant Ship lies broadside-on to the wharf. Two great

gangways made of spars and planks connect her with the wharf; and

up and down these gangways, perpetually crowding to and fro and in

and out, like ants, are the Emigrants who are going to sail in my

Emigrant Ship. Some with cabbages, some with loaves of bread, some

with cheese and butter, some with milk and beer, some with boxes,

beds, and bundles, some with babies – nearly all with children –

nearly all with bran-new tin cans for their daily allowance of

water, uncomfortably suggestive of a tin flavour in the drink. To

and fro, up and down, aboard and ashore, swarming here and there

and everywhere, my Emigrants. And still as the Dock-Gate swings

upon its hinges, cabs appear, and carts appear, and vans appear,

bringing more of my Emigrants, with more cabbages, more loaves,

more cheese and butter, more milk and beer, more boxes, beds, and

bundles, more tin cans, and on those shipping investments

accumulated compound interest of children.

I go aboard my Emigrant Ship. I go first to the great cabin, and

find it in the usual condition of a Cabin at that pass. Perspiring

landsmen, with loose papers, and with pens and inkstands, pervade

it; and the general appearance of things is as if the late Mr.

Amazon’s funeral had just come home from the cemetery, and the

disconsolate Mrs. Amazon’s trustees found the affairs in great

disorder, and were looking high and low for the will. I go out on

the poop-deck, for air, and surveying the emigrants on the deck

below (indeed they are crowded all about me, up there too), find

more pens and inkstands in action, and more papers, and

interminable complication respecting accounts with individuals for

tin cans and what not. But nobody is in an ill-temper, nobody is

the worse for drink, nobody swears an oath or uses a coarse word,

nobody appears depressed, nobody is weeping, and down upon the deck

in every corner where it is possible to find a few square feet to

kneel, crouch, or lie in, people, in every unsuitable attitude for

writing, are writing letters.

Now, I have seen emigrant ships before this day in June. And these

people are so strikingly different from all other people in like

circumstances whom I have ever seen, that I wonder aloud, ‘What

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WOULD a stranger suppose these emigrants to be!’

The vigilant, bright face of the weather-browned captain of the

Amazon is at my shoulder, and he says, ‘What, indeed! The most of

these came aboard yesterday evening. They came from various parts

of England in small parties that had never seen one another before.

Yet they had not been a couple of hours on board, when they

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