Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

Saints. I find in it the following sentences:- ‘The Select

Committee of the House of Commons on emigrant ships for 1854

summoned the Mormon agent and passenger-broker before it, and came

to the conclusion that no ships under the provisions of the

“Passengers Act” could be depended upon for comfort and security in

the same degree as those under his administration. The Mormon ship

is a Family under strong and accepted discipline, with every

provision for comfort, decorum and internal peace.’

CHAPTER XXIII – THE CITY OF THE ABSENT

Page 145

Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

When I think I deserve particularly well of myself, and have earned

the right to enjoy a little treat, I stroll from Covent-garden into

the City of London, after business-hours there, on a Saturday, or –

better yet – on a Sunday, and roam about its deserted nooks and

corners. It is necessary to the full enjoyment of these journeys

that they should be made in summer-time, for then the retired spots

that I love to haunt, are at their idlest and dullest. A gentle

fall of rain is not objectionable, and a warm mist sets off my

favourite retreats to decided advantage.

Among these, City Churchyards hold a high place. Such strange

churchyards hide in the City of London; churchyards sometimes so

entirely detached from churches, always so pressed upon by houses;

so small, so rank, so silent, so forgotten, except by the few

people who ever look down into them from their smoky windows. As I

stand peeping in through the iron gates and rails, I can peel the

rusty metal off, like bark from an old tree. The illegible

tombstones are all lop-sided, the grave-mounds lost their shape in

the rains of a hundred years ago, the Lombardy Poplar or Plane-Tree

that was once a drysalter’s daughter and several common-councilmen,

has withered like those worthies, and its departed leaves are dust

beneath it. Contagion of slow ruin overhangs the place. The

discoloured tiled roofs of the environing buildings stand so awry,

that they can hardly be proof against any stress of weather. Old

crazy stacks of chimneys seem to look down as they overhang,

dubiously calculating how far they will have to fall. In an angle

of the walls, what was once the tool-house of the grave-digger rots

away, encrusted with toadstools. Pipes and spouts for carrying off

the rain from the encompassing gables, broken or feloniously cut

for old lead long ago, now let the rain drip and splash as it list,

upon the weedy earth. Sometimes there is a rusty pump somewhere

near, and, as I look in at the rails and meditate, I hear it

working under an unknown hand with a creaking protest: as though

the departed in the churchyard urged, ‘Let us lie here in peace;

don’t suck us up and drink us!’

One of my best beloved churchyards, I call the churchyard of Saint

Ghastly Grim; touching what men in general call it, I have no

information. It lies at the heart of the City, and the Blackwall

Railway shrieks at it daily. It is a small small churchyard, with

a ferocious, strong, spiked iron gate, like a jail. This gate is

ornamented with skulls and cross-bones, larger than the life,

wrought in stone; but it likewise came into the mind of Saint

Ghastly Grim, that to stick iron spikes a-top of the stone skulls,

as though they were impaled, would be a pleasant device. Therefore

the skulls grin aloft horribly, thrust through and through with

iron spears. Hence, there is attraction of repulsion for me in

Saint Ghastly Grim, and, having often contemplated it in the

daylight and the dark, I once felt drawn towards it in a

thunderstorm at midnight. ‘Why not?’ I said, in self-excuse. ‘I

have been to see the Colosseum by the light of the moon; is it

worse to go to see Saint Ghastly Grim by the light of the

lightning?’ I repaired to the Saint in a hackney cab, and found

the skulls most effective, having the air of a public execution,

and seeming, as the lightning flashed, to wink and grin with the

pain of the spikes. Having no other person to whom to impart my

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