Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

‘But, allow me, sir, to mention it, as between yourself and a man

who has seen better days, sir. The master and myself are both

masons, sir, and I make him the sign continually; but, because I am

in this unfortunate position, sir, he won’t give me the countersign!’

CHAPTER IV – TWO VIEWS OF A CHEAP THEATRE

As I shut the door of my lodging behind me, and came out into the

streets at six on a drizzling Saturday evening in the last past

month of January, all that neighbourhood of Covent-garden looked

very desolate. It is so essentially a neighbourhood which has seen

better days, that bad weather affects it sooner than another place

which has not come down in the World. In its present reduced

condition it bears a thaw almost worse than any place I know. It

gets so dreadfully low-spirited when damp breaks forth. Those

wonderful houses about Drury-lane Theatre, which in the palmy days

of theatres were prosperous and long-settled places of business,

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Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

and which now change hands every week, but never change their

character of being divided and sub-divided on the ground floor into

mouldy dens of shops where an orange and half-a-dozen nuts, or a

pomatum-pot, one cake of fancy soap, and a cigar box, are offered

for sale and never sold, were most ruefully contemplated that

evening, by the statue of Shakespeare, with the rain-drops coursing

one another down its innocent nose. Those inscrutable pigeon-hole

offices, with nothing in them (not so much as an inkstand) but a

model of a theatre before the curtain, where, in the Italian Opera

season, tickets at reduced prices are kept on sale by nomadic

gentlemen in smeary hats too tall for them, whom one occasionally

seems to have seen on race-courses, not wholly unconnected with

strips of cloth of various colours and a rolling ball – those

Bedouin establishments, deserted by the tribe, and tenantless,

except when sheltering in one corner an irregular row of gingerbeer

bottles, which would have made one shudder on such a night,

but for its being plain that they had nothing in them, shrunk from

the shrill cries of the news-boys at their Exchange in the kennel

of Catherine-street, like guilty things upon a fearful summons. At

the pipe-shop in Great Russell-street, the Death’s-head pipes were

like theatrical memento mori, admonishing beholders of the decline

of the playhouse as an Institution. I walked up Bow-street,

disposed to be angry with the shops there, that were letting out

theatrical secrets by exhibiting to work-a-day humanity the stuff

of which diadems and robes of kings are made. I noticed that some

shops which had once been in the dramatic line, and had struggled

out of it, were not getting on prosperously – like some actors I

have known, who took to business and failed to make it answer. In

a word, those streets looked so dull, and, considered as theatrical

streets, so broken and bankrupt, that the FOUND DEAD on the black

board at the police station might have announced the decease of the

Drama, and the pools of water outside the fire-engine maker’s at

the corner of Long-acre might have been occasioned by his having

brought out the whole of his stock to play upon its last

smouldering ashes.

And yet, on such a night in so degenerate a time, the object of my

journey was theatrical. And yet within half an hour I was in an

immense theatre, capable of holding nearly five thousand people.

What Theatre? Her Majesty’s? Far better. Royal Italian Opera?

Far better. Infinitely superior to the latter for hearing in;

infinitely superior to both, for seeing in. To every part of this

Theatre, spacious fire-proof ways of ingress and egress. For every

part of it, convenient places of refreshment and retiring rooms.

Everything to eat and drink carefully supervised as to quality, and

sold at an appointed price; respectable female attendants ready for

the commonest women in the audience; a general air of

consideration, decorum, and supervision, most commendable; an

unquestionably humanising influence in all the social arrangements

of the place.

Surely a dear Theatre, then? Because there were in London (not

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