Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

mourning, or that I would myself particularly care to be driven to

my grave in a nodding and bobbing car, like an infirm four-post

bedstead, by an inky fellow-creature in a cocked-hat. But it may

be that I am constitutionally insensible to the virtues of a

cocked-hat. In provincial France, the solemnities are sufficiently

hideous, but are few and cheap. The friends and townsmen of the

departed, in their own dresses and not masquerading under the

auspices of the African Conjurer, surround the hand-bier, and often

carry it. It is not considered indispensable to stifle the

bearers, or even to elevate the burden on their shoulders;

consequently it is easily taken up, and easily set down, and is

carried through the streets without the distressing floundering and

shuffling that we see at home. A dirty priest or two, and a

dirtier acolyte or two, do not lend any especial grace to the

proceedings; and I regard with personal animosity the bassoon,

which is blown at intervals by the big-legged priest (it is always

a big-legged priest who blows the bassoon), when his fellows

combine in a lugubrious stalwart drawl. But there is far less of

the Conjurer and the Medicine Man in the business than under like

circumstances here. The grim coaches that we reserve expressly for

such shows, are non-existent; if the cemetery be far out of the

town, the coaches that are hired for other purposes of life are

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Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

hired for this purpose; and although the honest vehicles make no

pretence of being overcome, I have never noticed that the people in

them were the worse for it. In Italy, the hooded Members of

Confraternities who attend on funerals, are dismal and ugly to look

upon; but the services they render are at least voluntarily

rendered, and impoverish no one, and cost nothing. Why should high

civilisation and low savagery ever come together on the point of

making them a wantonly wasteful and contemptible set of forms?

Once I lost a friend by death, who had been troubled in his time by

the Medicine Man and the Conjurer, and upon whose limited resources

there were abundant claims. The Conjurer assured me that I must

positively ‘follow,’ and both he and the Medicine Man entertained

no doubt that I must go in a black carriage, and must wear

‘fittings.’ I objected to fittings as having nothing to do with my

friendship, and I objected to the black carriage as being in more

senses than one a job. So, it came into my mind to try what would

happen if I quietly walked, in my own way, from my own house to my

friend’s burial-place, and stood beside his open grave in my own

dress and person, reverently listening to the best of Services. It

satisfied my mind, I found, quite as well as if I had been

disguised in a hired hatband and scarf both trailing to my very

heels, and as if I had cost the orphan children, in their greatest

need, ten guineas.

Can any one who ever beheld the stupendous absurdities attendant on

‘A message from the Lords’ in the House of Commons, turn upon the

Medicine Man of the poor Indians? Has he any ‘Medicine’ in that

dried skin pouch of his, so supremely ludicrous as the two Masters

in Chancery holding up their black petticoats and butting their

ridiculous wigs at Mr. Speaker? Yet there are authorities

innumerable to tell me – as there are authorities innumerable among

the Indians to tell them – that the nonsense is indispensable, and

that its abrogation would involve most awful consequences. What

would any rational creature who had never heard of judicial and

forensic ‘fittings,’ think of the Court of Common Pleas on the

first day of Term? Or with what an awakened sense of humour would

LIVINGSTONE’S account of a similar scene be perused, if the fur and

red cloth and goats’ hair and horse hair and powdered chalk and

black patches on the top of the head, were all at Tala Mungongo

instead of Westminster? That model missionary and good brave man

found at least one tribe of blacks with a very strong sense of the

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