Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

cliff; and this speculation came over me: If this mud could

petrify at this moment, and could lie concealed here for ten

thousand years, I wonder whether the race of men then to be our

successors on the earth could, from these or any marks, by the

utmost force of the human intellect, unassisted by tradition,

deduce such an astounding inference as the existence of a polished

state of society that bore with the public savagery of neglected

children in the streets of its capital city, and was proud of its

power by sea and land, and never used its power to seize and save

them!

After this, when I came to the Old Bailey and glanced up it towards

Newgate, I found that the prison had an inconsistent look. There

seemed to be some unlucky inconsistency in the atmosphere that day;

for though the proportions of St. Paul’s Cathedral are very

beautiful, it had an air of being somewhat out of drawing, in my

eyes. I felt as though the cross were too high up, and perched

upon the intervening golden ball too far away.

Facing eastward, I left behind me Smithfield and Old Bailey, – fire

and faggot, condemned hold, public hanging, whipping through the

city at the cart-tail, pillory, branding-iron, and other beautiful

ancestral landmarks, which rude hands have rooted up, without

bringing the stars quite down upon us as yet, – and went my way

upon my beat, noting how oddly characteristic neighbourhoods are

divided from one another, hereabout, as though by an invisible line

across the way. Here shall cease the bankers and the moneychangers;

here shall begin the shipping interest and the nauticalinstrument

shops; here shall follow a scarcely perceptible

flavouring of groceries and drugs; here shall come a strong

infusion of butchers; now, small hosiers shall be in the ascendant;

henceforth, everything exposed for sale shall have its ticketed

price attached. All this as if specially ordered and appointed.

A single stride at Houndsditch Church, no wider than sufficed to

cross the kennel at the bottom of the Canon-gate, which the debtors

in Holyrood sanctuary were wont to relieve their minds by skipping

over, as Scott relates, and standing in delightful daring of

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catchpoles on the free side, – a single stride, and everything is

entirely changed in grain and character. West of the stride, a

table, or a chest of drawers on sale, shall be of mahogany and

French-polished; east of the stride, it shall be of deal, smeared

with a cheap counterfeit resembling lip-salve. West of the stride,

a penny loaf or bun shall be compact and self-contained; east of

the stride, it shall be of a sprawling and splay-footed character,

as seeking to make more of itself for the money. My beat lying

round by Whitechapel Church, and the adjacent sugar-refineries, –

great buildings, tier upon tier, that have the appearance of being

nearly related to the dock-warehouses at Liverpool, – I turned off

to my right, and, passing round the awkward corner on my left, came

suddenly on an apparition familiar to London streets afar off.

What London peripatetic of these times has not seen the woman who

has fallen forward, double, through some affection of the spine,

and whose head has of late taken a turn to one side, so that it now

droops over the back of one of her arms at about the wrist? Who

does not know her staff, and her shawl, and her basket, as she

gropes her way along, capable of seeing nothing but the pavement,

never begging, never stopping, for ever going somewhere on no

business? How does she live, whence does she come, whither does

she go, and why? I mind the time when her yellow arms were naught

but bone and parchment. Slight changes steal over her; for there

is a shadowy suggestion of human skin on them now. The Strand may

be taken as the central point about which she revolves in a halfmile

orbit. How comes she so far east as this? And coming back

too! Having been how much farther? She is a rare spectacle in

this neighbourhood. I receive intelligent information to this

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