Dickens, Charles – The Uncommercial Traveller

at the window with no room for its branches, has seen them all out.

So with the tomb of the old Master of the old Company, on which it

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drips. His son restored it and died, his daughter restored it and

died, and then he had been remembered long enough, and the tree

took possession of him, and his name cracked out.

There are few more striking indications of the changes of manners

and customs that two or three hundred years have brought about,

than these deserted churches. Many of them are handsome and costly

structures, several of them were designed by WREN, many of them

arose from the ashes of the great fire, others of them outlived the

plague and the fire too, to die a slow death in these later days.

No one can be sure of the coming time; but it is not too much to

say of it that it has no sign in its outsetting tides, of the

reflux to these churches of their congregations and uses. They

remain like the tombs of the old citizens who lie beneath them and

around them, Monuments of another age. They are worth a Sundayexploration,

now and then, for they yet echo, not unharmoniously,

to the time when the City of London really was London; when the

‘Prentices and Trained Bands were of mark in the state; when even

the Lord Mayor himself was a Reality – not a Fiction conventionally

be-puffed on one day in the year by illustrious friends, who no

less conventionally laugh at him on the remaining three hundred and

sixty-four days.

CHAPTER X – SHY NEIGHBOURHOODS

So much of my travelling is done on foot, that if I cherished

betting propensities, I should probably be found registered in

sporting newspapers under some such title as the Elastic Novice,

challenging all eleven stone mankind to competition in walking. My

last special feat was turning out of bed at two, after a hard day,

pedestrian and otherwise, and walking thirty miles into the country

to breakfast. The road was so lonely in the night, that I fell

asleep to the monotonous sound of my own feet, doing their regular

four miles an hour. Mile after mile I walked, without the

slightest sense of exertion, dozing heavily and dreaming

constantly. It was only when I made a stumble like a drunken man,

or struck out into the road to avoid a horseman close upon me on

the path – who had no existence – that I came to myself and looked

about. The day broke mistily (it was autumn time), and I could not

disembarrass myself of the idea that I had to climb those heights

and banks of cloud, and that there was an Alpine Convent somewhere

behind the sun, where I was going to breakfast. This sleepy notion

was so much stronger than such substantial objects as villages and

haystacks, that, after the sun was up and bright, and when I was

sufficiently awake to have a sense of pleasure in the prospect, I

still occasionally caught myself looking about for wooden arms to

point the right track up the mountain, and wondering there was no

snow yet. It is a curiosity of broken sleep that I made immense

quantities of verses on that pedestrian occasion (of course I never

make any when I am in my right senses), and that I spoke a certain

language once pretty familiar to me, but which I have nearly

forgotten from disuse, with fluency. Of both these phenomena I

have such frequent experience in the state between sleeping and

waking, that I sometimes argue with myself that I know I cannot be

awake, for, if I were, I should not be half so ready. The

readiness is not imaginary, because I often recall long strings of

the verses, and many turns of the fluent speech, after I am broad

awake.

My walking is of two kinds: one, straight on end to a definite

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goal at a round pace; one, objectless, loitering, and purely

vagabond. In the latter state, no gipsy on earth is a greater

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