The Gilded Age by Mark Twain and Charles Dudley Warner

which he stood, a wooden house, half painted, with a dirty piazza

(unroofed) in front, and a sign board hung on a slanting pole–bearing

the legend, “Hotel. P. Dusenheimer,” a sawmill further down the stream,

a blacksmith-shop, and a store, and three or four unpainted dwellings of

the slab variety.

As Philip approached the hotel he saw what appeared to be a wild beast

crouching on the piazza. It did not stir, however, and he soon found

that it was only a stuffed skin. This cheerful invitation to the tavern

was the remains of a huge panther which had been killed in the region a

few weeks before. Philip examined his ugly visage and strong crooked

fore-arm, as he was waiting admittance, having pounded upon the door.

“Yait a bit. I’ll shoost–put on my trowsers,” shouted a voice from the

window, and the door was soon opened by the yawning landlord.

“Morgen! Didn’t hear d’ drain oncet. Dem boys geeps me up zo spate.

Gom right in.”

Philip was shown into a dirty bar-room. It was a small room, with a

stove in the middle, set in a long shallow box of sand, for the benefit

of the “spitters,” a bar across one end–a mere counter with a sliding

glass-case behind it containing a few bottles having ambitious labels,

and a wash-sink in one corner. On the walls were the bright yellow and

black handbills of a traveling circus, with pictures of acrobats in human

pyramids, horses flying in long leaps through the air, and sylph-like

women in a paradisaic costume, balancing themselves upon the tips of

their toes on the bare backs of frantic and plunging steeds, and kissing

their hands to the spectators meanwhile.

As Philip did not desire a room at that hour, he was invited to wash

himself at the nasty sink, a feat somewhat easier than drying his face,

for the towel that hung in a roller over the sink was evidently as much a

fixture as the sink itself, and belonged, like the suspended brush and

comb, to the traveling public. Philip managed to complete his toilet by

the use of his pocket-handkerchief, and declining the hospitality of the

landlord, implied in the remark, “You won’d dake notin’?” he went into

the open air to wait for breakfast.

The country he saw was wild but not picturesque. The mountain before him

might be eight hundred feet high, and was only a portion of a long

unbroken range, savagely wooded, which followed the stream. Behind the

hotel, and across the brawling brook, was another level-topped, wooded

range exactly like it. Ilium itself, seen at a glance, was old enough to

be dilapidated, and if it had gained anything by being made a wood and

water station of the new railroad, it was only a new sort of grime and

rawness. P. Dusenheimer, standing in the door of his uninviting

groggery, when the trains stopped for water; never received from the

traveling public any patronage except facetious remarks upon his personal

appearance. Perhaps a thousand times he had heard the remark, “Ilium

fuit,” followed in most instances by a hail to himself as “AEneas,” with

the inquiry “Where is old Anchises? “At first he had replied, “Dere

ain’t no such man;” but irritated by its senseless repetition, he had

latterly dropped into the formula of, “You be dam.”

Philip was recalled from the contemplation of Ilium by the rolling and

growling of the gong within the hotel, the din and clamor increasing till

the house was apparently unable to contain it; when it burst out of the

front door and informed the world that breakfast was on the table.

The dining room was long, low and narrow, and a narrow table extended its

whole length. Upon this was spread a cloth which from appearance might

have been as long in use as the towel in the barroom. Upon the table was

the usual service, the heavy, much nicked stone ware, the row of plated

and rusty castors, the sugar bowls with the zinc tea-spoons sticking up

in them, the piles of yellow biscuits, the discouraged-looking plates of

butter. The landlord waited, and Philip was pleased to observe the

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