Tour through the Eastern Counties of England, 1722

on the conflux of two rivers – the Chelmer, whence the town is

called, and the Cann.

At Lees, or Lee’s Priory, as some call it, is to be seen an ancient

house in the middle of a beautiful park, formerly the seat of the

late Duke of Manchester, but since the death of the duke it is sold

to the Duchess Dowager of Buckinghamshire, the present Duke of

Manchester retiring to his ancient family seat at Kimbolton in

Huntingdonshire, it being a much finer residence. His grace is

lately married to a daughter of the Duke of Montagu by a branch of

the house of Marlborough.

Four market towns fill up the rest of this part of the country –

Dunmow, Braintree, Thaxted, and Coggeshall – all noted for the

manufacture of bays, as above, and for very little else, except I

shall make the ladies laugh at the famous old story of the Flitch

of Bacon at Dunmow, which is this:

One Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful baron in this county in the time

of Henry III., on some merry occasion, which is not preserved in

the rest of the story, instituted a custom in the priory here: That

whatever married man did not repent of his being married, or

quarrel or differ and dispute with his wife within a year and a day

after his marriage, and would swear to the truth of it, kneeling

upon two hard pointed stones in the churchyard, which stones he

caused to be set up in the Priory churchyard for that purpose, the

prior and convent, and as many of the town as would, to be present,

such person should have a flitch of bacon.

I do not remember to have read that any one ever came to demand it;

nor do the people of the place pretend to say, of their own

knowledge, that they remember any that did so. A long time ago

several did demand it, as they say, but they know not who; neither

is there any record of it, nor do they tell us, if it were now to

be demanded, who is obliged to deliver the flitch of bacon, the

priory being dissolved and gone.

The forest of Epping and Hainault spreads a great part of this

country still. I shall speak again of the former in my return from

this circuit. Formerly, it is thought, these two forests took up

all the west and south part of the county; but particularly we are

assured, that it reached to the River Chelmer, and into Dengy

Hundred, and from thence again west to Epping and Waltham, where it

continues to be a forest still.

Probably this forest of Epping has been a wild or forest ever since

this island was inhabited, and may show us, in some parts of it,

where enclosures and tillage has not broken in upon it, what the

face of this island was before the Romans’ time; that is to say,

before their landing in Britain.

The constitution of this forest is best seen, I mean as to the

antiquity of it, by the merry grant of it from Edward the Confessor

before the Norman Conquest to Randolph Peperking, one of his

favourites, who was after called Peverell, and whose name remains

still in several villages in this county; as particularly that of

Hatfield Peverell, in the road from Chelmsford to Witham, which is

supposed to be originally a park, which they called a field in

those days; and Hartfield may be as much as to say a park for doer;

for the stags were in those days called harts, so that this was

neither more nor less than Randolph Peperking’s Hartfield – that is

to say, Ralph Peverell’s deer-park.

N.B. – This Ralph Randolph, or Ralph Peverell (call him as you

please), had, it seems, a most beautiful lady to his wife, who was

daughter of Ingelrick, one of Edward the Confessor’s noblemen. He

had two sons by her – William Peverell, a famed soldier, and lord

or governor of Dover Castle, which he surrendered to William the

Conqueror, after the battle in Sussex, and Pain Peverell, his

youngest, who was lord of Cambridge. When the eldest son delivered

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