Tour through the Eastern Counties of England, 1722

fishing-smacks are able on the same occasion to perform. These

fishing-smacks are very useful vessels to the public upon many

occasions; as particularly, in time of war they are used as press-

smacks, running to all the northern and western coasts to pick up

seamen to man the navy, when any expedition is at hand that

requires a sudden equipment; at other times, being excellent

sailors, they are tenders to particular men of war; and on an

expedition they have been made use of as machines for the blowing

up of fortified ports and havens; as at Calais, St. Malo, and other

places.

This parish of Barking is very large, and by the improvement of

lands taken in out of the Thames, and out of the river which runs

by the town, the tithes, as the townsmen assured me, are worth

above 600 pounds per annum, including, small tithes. NOTE. – This

parish has two or three chapels of ease, viz., one at Ilford, and

one on the side of Hainault Forest, called New Chapel.

Sir Thomas Fanshaw, of an ancient Roman Catholic family, has a very

good estate in this parish. A little beyond the town, on the road

to Dagenham, stood a great house, ancient, and now almost fallen

down, where tradition says the Gunpowder Treason Plot was at first

contrived, and that all the first consultations about it were held

there.

This side of the county is rather rich in land than in inhabitants,

occasioned chiefly by the unhealthiness of the air; for these low

marsh grounds, which, with all the south side of the county, have

been saved out of the River Thames, and out of the sea, where the

river is wide enough to be called so, begin here, or rather begin

at West Ham, by Stratford, and continue to extend themselves, from

hence eastward, growing wider and wider till we come beyond

Tilbury, when the flat country lies six, seven, or eight miles

broad, and is justly said to be both unhealthy and unpleasant.

However, the lands are rich, and, as is observable, it is very good

farming in the marshes, because the landlords let good pennyworths,

for it being a place where everybody cannot live, those that

venture it will have encouragement and indeed it is but reasonable

they should.

Several little observations I made in this part of the county of

Essex.

1. We saw, passing from Barking to Dagenham, the famous breach,

made by an inundation of the Thames, which was so great as that it

laid near 5,000 acres of land under water, but which after near ten

years lying under water, and being several times blown up, has been

at last effectually stopped by the application of Captain Perry,

the gentleman who, for several years, had been employed in the Czar

of Muscovy’s works, at Veronitza, on the River Don. This breach

appeared now effectually made up, and they assured us that the new

work, where the breach was, is by much esteemed the strongest of

all the sea walls in that level.

2. It was observable that great part of the lands in these levels,

especially those on this side East Tilbury, are held by the

farmers, cow-keepers, and grazing butchers who live in and near

London, and that they are generally stocked (all the winter half

year) with large fat sheep, viz., Lincolnshire and Leicestershire

wethers, which they buy in Smithfield in September and October,

when the Lincolnshire and Leicestershire graziers sell off their

stock, and are kept here till Christmas, or Candlemas, or

thereabouts; and though they are not made at all fatter here than

they were when bought in, yet the farmer or butcher finds very good

advantage in it, by the difference of the price of mutton between

Michaelmas, when it is cheapest, and Candlemas, when it is dearest;

this is what the butchers value themselves upon, when they tell us

at the market that it is right marsh-mutton.

3. In the bottom of these Marshes, and close to the edge of the

river, stands the strong fortress of Tilbury, called Tilbury Fort,

which may justly be looked upon as the key of the River Thames, and

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