WHAT IS MAN? AND OTHER ESSAYS OF MARK TWAIN

delivering into her husband’s ear that gospel of revolt which was

to bear fruit in the conspiracy of Rutli and the birth of the

first free government the world had ever seen.

From this Victoria Hotel one looks straight across a flat of

trifling width to a lofty mountain barrier, which has a gateway

in it shaped like an inverted pyramid. Beyond this gateway

arises the vast bulk of the Jungfrau, a spotless mass of gleaming

snow, into the sky. The gateway, in the dark-colored barrier,

makes a strong frame for the great picture. The somber frame and

the glowing snow-pile are startlingly contrasted. It is this

frame which concentrates and emphasizes the glory of the Jungfrau

and makes it the most engaging and beguiling and fascinating

spectacle that exists on the earth. There are many mountains of

snow that are as lofty as the Jungfrau and as nobly proportioned,

but they lack the fame. They stand at large; they are intruded

upon and elbowed by neighboring domes and summits, and their

grandeur is diminished and fails of effect.

It is a good name, Jungfrau–Virgin. Nothing could be

whiter; nothing could be purer; nothing could be saintlier of

aspect. At six yesterday evening the great intervening barrier

seen through a faint bluish haze seemed made of air and

substanceless, so soft and rich it was, so shimmering where the

wandering lights touched it and so dim where the shadows lay.

Apparently it was a dream stuff, a work of the imagination,

nothing real about it. The tint was green, slightly varying

shades of it, but mainly very dark. The sun was down–as far as

that barrier was concerned, but not for the Jungfrau, towering

into the heavens beyond the gateway. She was a roaring

conflagration of blinding white.

It is said the Fridolin (the old Fridolin), a new saint, but

formerly a missionary, gave the mountain its gracious name. He

was an Irishman, son of an Irish king–there were thirty thousand

kings reigning in County Cork alone in his time, fifteen hundred

years ago. It got so that they could not make a living, there

was so much competition and wages got cut so. Some of them were

out of work months at a time, with wife and little children to

feed, and not a crust in the place. At last a particularly

severe winter fell upon the country, and hundreds of them were

reduced to mendicancy and were to be seen day after day in the

bitterest weather, standing barefoot in the snow, holding out

their crowns for alms. Indeed, they would have been obliged to

emigrate or starve but for a fortunate idea of Prince Fridolin’s,

who started a labor-union, the first one in history, and got the

great bulk of them to join it. He thus won the general

gratitude, and they wanted to make him emperor–emperor over them

all–emperor of County Cork, but he said, No, walking delegate

was good enough for him. For behold! he was modest beyond his

years, and keen as a whip. To this day in Germany and

Switzerland, where St. Fridolin is revered and honored, the

peasantry speak of him affectionately as the first walking

delegate.

The first walk he took was into France and Germany,

missionarying–for missionarying was a better thing in those days

than it is in ours. All you had to do was to cure the savage’s

sick daughter by a “miracle”–a miracle like the miracle of

Lourdes in our day, for instance–and immediately that head

savage was your convert, and filled to the eyes with a new

convert’s enthusiasm. You could sit down and make yourself easy,

now. He would take an ax and convert the rest of the nation

himself. Charlemagne was that kind of a walking delegate.

Yes, there were great missionaries in those days, for the

methods were sure and the rewards great. We have no such

missionaries now, and no such methods.

But to continue the history of the first walking delegate,

if you are interested. I am interested myself because I have

seen his relics in Sackingen, and also the very spot where he

worked his great miracle–the one which won him his sainthood in

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