This orientation by the stars told me that west sliced straight into that thick black brush.
My only alternative was to get back into the water, stick with the river. . . and wind up sometime tomorrow in Vicksburg.
No, thanks. I headed into the bush.
I’m going to skip rapidly over the next several hours. It may not have been the longest night of my life but it was surely the dullest. I am sure that there must be thicker and more dangerous jungles on Earth than the brush on the bottomland of the lower Mississippi. But I do not want to tackle them, especially without a machete (not even a Scout knife!).
I spent most of my time backing out, having decided, No, not through there-now how can I go around?-No, not on its south side!-how can I get around it to the north? My track was as contorted as the path of the river itself and my progress was possibly one kilometer per hour-or perhaps I exaggerate; it could have been less. Much of the time was spent reorienting, a necessity every few meters.
Flies, mosquitoes, gnats, crawly things I never saw, twice snakes underfoot that may have been water moccasins but I did not wait to find out, endless disturbed birds with a dozen different sorts of cries-birds that often flew up almost in my face to our mutual dis
tress. My footing was usually mud and always included something to trip over, ankle-high, shin-high, or both.
Three times (four times?) I came to open water. Each time I held course west and when the water was deep enough I swam. Stagnant bayou mostly, but one stretch seemed to have a current and may have been a minor channel of the Mississippi. Once there was something large swimming by me. Giant catfish? Aren’t they supposed to stay on the bottom? Alligator? But there aren’t supposed to be any there at all. Perhaps it was the Loch Ness monster on tour; I never saw it, simply felt it-and levitated right out of the water through sheer fright.
About eight hundred years after the sinking of the Skip and the Myrtle came the dawn.
West of me about a kilometer was the high ground of the Arkansas side. I felt triumphant.
I also felt hungry, exhausted, dirty, insect-bitten, disreputable, and almost unbearably thirsty.
Five hours later I was the guest of Mr. Asa Hunter as a passenger in his Studebaker farm wagon hitched to a fine span of mules. We were approaching a small town named Eudora. I still had not had any sleep but I had had the next best and everything but-water, food, a wash-up. Mrs. Hunter had clucked over me, lent me a comb, and given me breakfast: basted fried eggs, home-cured bacon thick and fat, corn bread, butter, sorghum, milk, coffee made in a pot and settled with an eggshell-and to appreciate in fullness Mrs. Hunter’s cooking I recommend swimming all night alternated with crawling through the thickets of Old Man River’s bottomland mud. Ambrosia
I ate wearing her wrapper as she insisted on rinsing out my bedraggled jump suit. It was dry by the time I was ready to leave, and I looked almost respectable.
I did not offer to pay the Hunters. There are human people who have very little but are rich in dignity and self-respect. Their hospitality is not for sale, nor is their charity. I am slowly learning to recognize this trait in human people who have it. In the Hunters it was unmistakable.
We crossed Macon Bayou and then the road dead-ended into a slightly wider road. Mr. Hunter stopped his mules, got down, came around to my side. “Miss, I’d thank you kindly to get down here.”
I accepted his hand, let him hand me down. “Is something wrong, Mr. Hunter? Have I offended you?”
He answered slowly, “No, miss. Not at all.” He hesitated. “You told us how your fishing boat was stove in by a snag.”
“Yes?”
“Snags in the river are a pesky hazard.” He paused. “Yesterday evening come sundown something bad happened on the river. Two explosions, about at Kentucky Bend. Big ones. Could see ’em and hear ’em from the house.”
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