From London to Land’s End

so; it may, indeed, be said that the river is made into a canal.

When we come into the courtyards before the house there are several

pieces of antiquity to entertain the curious, as particularly a

noble column of porphyry, with a marble statue of Venus on the top

of it. In Italy, and especially at Rome and Naples, we see a great

variety of fine columns, and some of them of excellent workmanship

and antiquity; and at some of the courts of the princes of Italy

the like is seen, as especially at the court of Florence; but in

England I do not remember to have seen anything like this, which,

as they told me, is two-and-thirty feet high, and of excellent

workmanship, and that it came last from Candia, but formerly from

Alexandria. What may belong to the history of it any further, I

suppose is not known–at least, they could tell me no more of it

who showed it me.

On the left of the court was formerly a large grotto and curious

water-works; and in a house, or shed, or part of the building,

which opened with two folding-doors, like a coach-house, a large

equestrian statue of one of the ancestors of the family in complete

armour, as also another of a Roman Emperor in brass. But the last

time I had the curiosity to see this house, I missed that part; so

that I supposed they were removed.

As the present Earl of Pembroke, the lord of this fine palace, is a

nobleman of great personal merit many other ways, so he is a man of

learning and reading beyond most men of his lordship’s high rank in

this nation, if not in the world; and as his reading has made him a

master of antiquity, and judge of such pieces of antiquity as he

has had opportunity to meet with in his own travels and otherwise

in the world, so it has given him a love of the study, and made him

a collector of valuable things, as well in painting as in

sculpture, and other excellences of art, as also of nature;

insomuch that Wilton House is now a mere museum or a chamber of

rarities, and we meet with several things there which are to be

found nowhere else in the world.

As his lordship is a great collector of fine paintings, so I know

no nobleman’s house in England so prepared, as if built on purpose,

to receive them; the largest and the finest pieces that can be

imagined extant in the world might have found a place here capable

to receive them. I say, they “might have found,” as if they could

not now, which is in part true; for at present the whole house is

so completely filled that I see no room for any new piece to crowd

in without displacing some other fine piece that hung there before.

As for the value of the piece that might so offer to succeed the

displaced, that the great judge of the whole collection, the earl

himself, must determine; and as his judgment is perfectly good, the

best picture would be sure to possess the place. In a word, here

is without doubt the best, if not the greatest, collection of

rarities and paintings that are to be seen together in any one

nobleman’s or gentleman’s house in England. The piece of our

Saviour washing His disciples’ feet, which they show you in one of

the first rooms you go into, must be spoken of by everybody that

has any knowledge of painting, and is an admirable piece indeed.

You ascend the great staircase at the upper end of the hall, which

is very large; at the foot of the staircase you have a Bacchus as

large as life, done in fine Peloponnesian marble, carrying a young

Bacchus on his arm, the young one eating grapes, and letting you

see by his countenance that he is pleased with the taste of them.

Nothing can be done finer, or more lively represent the thing

intended–namely, the gust of the appetite, which if it be not a

passion, it is an affection which is as much seen in the

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