From London to Land’s End

the line, all which, with a fair wind and fine weather, came to an

anchor there at once.

This town, as most of the towns of Devonshire are, is full of

Dissenters, and a very large meeting-house they have here. How

they act here with respect to the great dispute about the doctrine

of the Trinity, which has caused such a breach among those people

at Exeter and other parts of the county, I cannot give any account

of. This town sends two members to Parliament.

From hence we went to Plympton, a poor and thinly-inhabited town,

though blessed with the like privilege of sending members to the

Parliament, of which I have little more to say but that from thence

the road lies to Plymouth, distance about six miles.

Plymouth is indeed a town of consideration, and of great importance

to the public. The situation of it between two very large inlets

of the sea, and in the bottom of a large bay, which is very

remarkable for the advantage of navigation. The Sound or Bay is

compassed on every side with hills, and the shore generally steep

and rocky, though the anchorage is good, and it is pretty safe

riding. In the entrance to this bay lies a large and most

dangerous rock, which at high-water is covered, but at low-tide

lies bare, where many a good ship has been lost, even in the view

of safety, and many a ship’s crew drowned in the night, before help

could be had for them.

Upon this rock (which was called the Eddystone, from its situation)

the famous Mr. Winstanley undertook to build a lighthouse for the

direction of sailors, and with great art and expedition finished

it; which work–considering its height, the magnitude of its

building, and the little hold there was by which it was possible to

fasten it to the rock–stood to admiration, and bore out many a

bitter storm.

Mr. Winstanley often visited, and frequently strengthened, the

building by new works, and was so confident of its firmness and

stability that he usually said he only desired to be in it when a

storm should happen; for many people had told him it would

certainly fall if it came to blow a little harder than ordinary.

But he happened at last to be in it once too often–namely, when

that dreadful tempest blew, November 27, 1703. This tempest began

on the Wednesday before, and blew with such violence, and shook the

lighthouse so much, that, as they told me there, Mr. Winstanley

would fain have been on shore, and made signals for help; but no

boats durst go off to him; and, to finish the tragedy, on the

Friday, November 26, when the tempest was so redoubled that it

became a terror to the whole nation, the first sight there seaward

that the people of Plymouth were presented with in the morning

after the storm was the bare Eddystone, the lighthouse being gone;

in which Mr. Winstanley and all that were with him perished, and

were never seen or heard of since. But that which was a worse loss

still was that, a few days after, a merchant’s ship called the

Winchelsea, homeward bound from Virginia, not knowing the Eddystone

lighthouse was down, for want of the light that should have been

seen, run foul of the rock itself, and was lost with all her lading

and most of her men. But there is now another light-house built on

the same rock.

What other disasters happened at the same time in the Sound and in

the roads about Plymouth is not my business; they are also

published in other books, to which I refer.

One thing which I was a witness to on a former journey to this

place, I cannot omit. It was the next year after that great storm,

and but a little sooner in the year, being in August; I was at

Plymouth, and walking on the Hoo (which is a plain on the edge of

the sea, looking to the road), I observed the evening so serene, so

calm, so bright, and the sea so smooth, that a finer sight, I

think, I never saw. There was very little wind, but what was,

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