Pictures from Italy

lady, prematurely dressed in mourning, brought two little children,

who kneeled down by the bedside, while he made a decent end; the

last word on his lips being ‘Vatterlo.’

It was unspeakably ludicrous. Buonaparte’s boots were so

wonderfully beyond control, and did such marvellous things of their

own accord: doubling themselves up, and getting under tables, and

dangling in the air, and sometimes skating away with him, out of

all human knowledge, when he was in full speech – mischances which

were not rendered the less absurd, by a settled melancholy depicted

in his face. To put an end to one conference with Low, he had to

go to a table, and read a book: when it was the finest spectacle I

ever beheld, to see his body bending over the volume, like a bootjack,

and his sentimental eyes glaring obstinately into the pit.

He was prodigiously good, in bed, with an immense collar to his

shirt, and his little hands outside the coverlet. So was Dr.

Antommarchi, represented by a puppet with long lank hair, like

Mawworm’s, who, in consequence of some derangement of his wires,

hovered about the couch like a vulture, and gave medical opinions

in the air. He was almost as good as Low, though the latter was

great at all times – a decided brute and villain, beyond all

possibility of mistake. Low was especially fine at the last, when,

hearing the doctor and the valet say, ‘The Emperor is dead!’ he

pulled out his watch, and wound up the piece (not the watch) by

exclaiming, with characteristic brutality, ‘Ha! ha! Eleven minutes

to six! The General dead! and the spy hanged!’ This brought the

curtain down, triumphantly.

There is not in Italy, they say (and I believe them), a lovelier

residence than the Palazzo Peschiere, or Palace of the Fishponds,

whither we removed as soon as our three months’ tenancy of the Pink

Jail at Albaro had ceased and determined.

It stands on a height within the walls of Genoa, but aloof from the

town: surrounded by beautiful gardens of its own, adorned with

statues, vases, fountains, marble basins, terraces, walks of

orange-trees and lemon-trees, groves of roses and camellias. All

its apartments are beautiful in their proportions and decorations;

Page 34

Dickens, Charles – Pictures From Italy

but the great hall, some fifty feet in height, with three large

windows at the end, overlooking the whole town of Genoa, the

harbour, and the neighbouring sea, affords one of the most

fascinating and delightful prospects in the world. Any house more

cheerful and habitable than the great rooms are, within, it would

be difficult to conceive; and certainly nothing more delicious than

the scene without, in sunshine or in moonlight, could be imagined.

It is more like an enchanted place in an Eastern story than a grave

and sober lodging.

How you may wander on, from room to room, and never tire of the

wild fancies on the walls and ceilings, as bright in their fresh

colouring as if they had been painted yesterday; or how one floor,

or even the great hall which opens on eight other rooms, is a

spacious promenade; or how there are corridors and bed-chambers

above, which we never use and rarely visit, and scarcely know the

way through; or how there is a view of a perfectly different

character on each of the four sides of the building; matters

little. But that prospect from the hall is like a vision to me. I

go back to it, in fancy, as I have done in calm reality a hundred

times a day; and stand there, looking out, with the sweet scents

from the garden rising up about me, in a perfect dream of

happiness.

There lies all Genoa, in beautiful confusion, with its many

churches, monasteries, and convents, pointing up into the sunny

sky; and down below me, just where the roofs begin, a solitary

convent parapet, fashioned like a gallery, with an iron across at

the end, where sometimes early in the morning, I have seen a little

group of dark-veiled nuns gliding sorrowfully to and fro, and

stopping now and then to peep down upon the waking world in which

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