Pictures from Italy

Miserere. Sometimes, there was a swell of mournful voices that

sounded very pathetic and sad, and died away, into a low strain

again; but that was all we heard.

At another time, there was the Exhibition of Relics in St. Peter’s,

which took place at between six and seven o’clock in the evening,

and was striking from the cathedral being dark and gloomy, and

having a great many people in it. The place into which the relics

were brought, one by one, by a party of three priests, was a high

balcony near the chief altar. This was the only lighted part of

the church. There are always a hundred and twelve lamps burning

near the altar, and there were two tall tapers, besides, near the

black statue of St. Peter; but these were nothing in such an

immense edifice. The gloom, and the general upturning of faces to

the balcony, and the prostration of true believers on the pavement,

as shining objects, like pictures or looking-glasses, were brought

out and shown, had something effective in it, despite the very

preposterous manner in which they were held up for the general

edification, and the great elevation at which they were displayed;

which one would think rather calculated to diminish the comfort

derivable from a full conviction of their being genuine.

On the Thursday, we went to see the Pope convey the Sacrament from

the Sistine chapel, to deposit it in the Capella Paolina, another

chapel in the Vatican; – a ceremony emblematical of the entombment

of the Saviour before His Resurrection. We waited in a great

gallery with a great crowd of people (three-fourths of them

English) for an hour or so, while they were chaunting the Miserere,

in the Sistine chapel again. Both chapels opened out of the

gallery; and the general attention was concentrated on the

occasional opening and shutting of the door of the one for which

the Pope was ultimately bound. None of these openings disclosed

anything more tremendous than a man on a ladder, lighting a great

quantity of candles; but at each and every opening, there was a

terrific rush made at this ladder and this man, something like (I

should think) a charge of the heavy British cavalry at Waterloo.

Page 95

Dickens, Charles – Pictures From Italy

The man was never brought down, however, nor the ladder; for it

performed the strangest antics in the world among the crowd – where

it was carried by the man, when the candles were all lighted; and

finally it was stuck up against the gallery wall, in a very

disorderly manner, just before the opening of the other chapel, and

the commencement of a new chaunt, announced the approach of his

Holiness. At this crisis, the soldiers of the guard, who had been

poking the crowd into all sorts of shapes, formed down the gallery:

and the procession came up, between the two lines they made.

There were a few choristers, and then a great many priests, walking

two and two, and carrying – the good-looking priests at least –

their lighted tapers, so as to throw the light with a good effect

upon their faces: for the room was darkened. Those who were not

handsome, or who had not long beards, carried THEIR tapers anyhow,

and abandoned themselves to spiritual contemplation. Meanwhile,

the chaunting was very monotonous and dreary. The procession

passed on, slowly, into the chapel, and the drone of voices went

on, and came on, with it, until the Pope himself appeared, walking

under a white satin canopy, and bearing the covered Sacrament in

both hands; cardinals and canons clustered round him, making a

brilliant show. The soldiers of the guard knelt down as he passed;

all the bystanders bowed; and so he passed on into the chapel: the

white satin canopy being removed from over him at the door, and a

white satin parasol hoisted over his poor old head, in place of it.

A few more couples brought up the rear, and passed into the chapel

also. Then, the chapel door was shut; and it was all over; and

everybody hurried off headlong, as for life or death, to see

something else, and say it wasn’t worth the trouble.

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105

Leave a Reply 0

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *