Pictures from Italy

city’s greatness; and it told of what had been (so are the strong

and weak confounded in the dust) almost as eloquently as the

massive pillars, arches, roofs, reared to overshadow stately ships

that had no other shadow now, upon the water or the earth.

An armoury was there yet. Plundered and despoiled; but an armoury.

With a fierce standard taken from the Turks, drooping in the dull

air of its cage. Rich suits of mail worn by great warriors were

hoarded there; crossbows and bolts; quivers full of arrows; spears;

swords, daggers, maces, shields, and heavy-headed axes. Plates of

wrought steel and iron, to make the gallant horse a monster cased

in metal scales; and one spring-weapon (easy to be carried in the

breast) designed to do its office noiselessly, and made for

shooting men with poisoned darts.

One press or case I saw, full of accursed instruments of torture

horribly contrived to cramp, and pinch, and grind and crush men’s

bones, and tear and twist them with the torment of a thousand

deaths. Before it, were two iron helmets, with breast-pieces:

made to close up tight and smooth upon the heads of living

sufferers; and fastened on to each, was a small knob or anvil,

where the directing devil could repose his elbow at his ease, and

listen, near the walled-up ear, to the lamentations and confessions

of the wretch within. There was that grim resemblance in them to

the human shape – they were such moulds of sweating faces, pained

and cramped – that it was difficult to think them empty; and

terrible distortions lingering within them, seemed to follow me,

when, taking to my boat again, I rowed off to a kind of garden or

public walk in the sea, where there were grass and trees. But I

forgot them when I stood upon its farthest brink – I stood there,

in my dream – and looked, along the ripple, to the setting sun;

before me, in the sky and on the deep, a crimson flush; and behind

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Dickens, Charles – Pictures From Italy

me the whole city resolving into streaks of red and purple, on the

water.

In the luxurious wonder of so rare a dream, I took but little heed

of time, and had but little understanding of its flight. But there

were days and nights in it; and when the sun was high, and when the

rays of lamps were crooked in the running water, I was still

afloat, I thought: plashing the slippery walls and houses with the

cleavings of the tide, as my black boat, borne upon it, skimmed

along the streets.

Sometimes, alighting at the doors of churches and vast palaces, I

wandered on, from room to room, from aisle to aisle, through

labyrinths of rich altars, ancient monuments; decayed apartments

where the furniture, half awful, half grotesque, was mouldering

away. Pictures were there, replete with such enduring beauty and

expression: with such passion, truth and power: that they seemed

so many young and fresh realities among a host of spectres. I

thought these, often intermingled with the old days of the city:

with its beauties, tyrants, captains, patriots, merchants,

counters, priests: nay, with its very stones, and bricks, and

public places; all of which lived again, about me, on the walls.

Then, coming down some marble staircase where the water lapped and

oozed against the lower steps, I passed into my boat again, and

went on in my dream.

Floating down narrow lanes, where carpenters, at work with plane

and chisel in their shops, tossed the light shaving straight upon

the water, where it lay like weed, or ebbed away before me in a

tangled heap. Past open doors, decayed and rotten from long

steeping in the wet, through which some scanty patch of vine shone

green and bright, making unusual shadows on the pavement with its

trembling leaves. Past quays and terraces, where women, gracefully

veiled, were passing and repassing, and where idlers were reclining

in the sun-shine, on flag-stones and on flights of steps. Past

bridges, where there were idlers too; loitering and looking over.

Below stone balconies, erected at a giddy height, before the

loftiest windows of the loftiest houses. Past plots of garden,

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