A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

in the head, and I vainly tried to close them with one hand,

while holding on with the other. It was useless;

the blood gushed out in blinding jets at each pulsation.

At last, in a moment of inspiration, I kicked out a big

lump of snow and struck it as plaster on my head.

The idea was a happy one, and the flow of blood diminished.

Then, scrambling up, I got, not a moment too soon, to a

place of safety, and fainted away. The sun was setting

when consciousness returned, and it was pitch-dark before

the Great Staircase was descended; but by a combination

of luck and care, the whole four thousand seven hundred

feet of descent to Breil was accomplished without a slip,

or once missing the way.”

His wounds kept him abed some days. Then he got up

and climbed that mountain again. That is the way with

a true Alp-climber; the more fun he has, the more he wants.

CHAPTER XXXVII

[Our Imposing Column Starts Upward]

After I had finished my readings, I was no longer myself;

I was tranced, uplifted, intoxicated, by the almost

incredible perils and adventures I had been following

my authors through, and the triumphs I had been sharing

with them. I sat silent some time, then turned to Harris

and said:

“My mind is made up.”

Something in my tone struck him: and when he glanced

at my eye and read what was written there, his face

paled perceptibly. He hesitated a moment, then said:

“Speak.”

I answered, with perfect calmness:

“I will ascend the Riffelberg.”

If I had shot my poor friend he could not have fallen from

his chair more suddenly. If I had been his father he could

not have pleaded harder to get me to give up my purpose.

But I turned a deaf ear to all he said. When he perceived

at last that nothing could alter my determination,

he ceased to urge, and for a while the deep silence was

broken only by his sobs. I sat in marble resolution,

with my eyes fixed upon vacancy, for in spirit I was already

wrestling with the perils of the mountains, and my friend

sat gazing at me in adoring admiration through his tears.

At last he threw himself upon me in a loving embrace and

exclaimed in broken tones:

“Your Harris will never desert you. We will die together.”

I cheered the noble fellow with praises, and soon his

fears were forgotten and he was eager for the adventure.

He wanted to summon the guides at once and leave at

two in the morning, as he supposed the custom was;

but I explained that nobody was looking at that hour;

and that the start in the dark was not usually made from

the village but from the first night’s resting-place

on the mountain side. I said we would leave the village

at 3 or 4 P.M. on the morrow; meantime he could notify

the guides, and also let the public know of the attempt

which we proposed to make.

I went to bed, but not to sleep. No man can sleep when he

is about to undertake one of these Alpine exploits.

I tossed feverishly all night long, and was glad enough

when I heard the clock strike half past eleven and knew it

was time to get up for dinner. I rose, jaded and rusty,

and went to the noon meal, where I found myself the center

of interest and curiosity; for the news was already abroad.

It is not easy to eat calmly when you are a lion; but it is

very pleasant, nevertheless.

As usual, at Zermatt, when a great ascent is about to

be undertaken, everybody, native and foreign, laid aside

his own projects and took up a good position to observe

the start. The expedition consisted of 198 persons,

including the mules; or 205, including the cows.

As follows:

CHIEFS OF SERVICE SUBORDINATES

Myself 1 Veterinary Surgeon Mr. Harris 1 Butler 17

Guides 12 Waiters 4 Surgeons 1 Footman 1 Geologist 1

Barber 1 Botanist 1 Head Cook 3 Chaplains 9 Assistants

15 Barkeepers 1 Confectionery Artist 1 Latinist

TRANSPORTATION, ETC.