LIFE ON THE MISSISSIPPI BY MARK TWAIN

Signs and scars still remain, as reminders of Vicksburg’s

tremendous war experiences; earthworks, trees crippled by

the cannon balls, cave-refuges in the clay precipices, etc.

The caves did good service during the six weeks’

bombardment of the city–May 8 to July 4, 1863. They were

used by the non-combatants–mainly by the women and children;

not to live in constantly, but to fly to for safety on occasion.

They were mere holes, tunnels, driven into the perpendicular

clay bank, then branched Y shape, within the hill.

Life in Vicksburg, during the six weeks was perhaps–but wait;

here are some materials out of which to reproduce it:–

Population, twenty-seven thousand soldiers and three

thousand non-combatants; the city utterly cut off from the world–

walled solidly in, the frontage by gunboats, the rear by soldiers

and batteries; hence, no buying and selling with the outside;

no passing to and fro; no God-speeding a parting guest,

no welcoming a coming one; no printed acres of world-wide news

to be read at breakfast, mornings–a tedious dull absence of

such matter, instead; hence, also, no running to see steamboats

smoking into view in the distance up or down, and plowing toward

the town–for none came, the river lay vacant and undisturbed;

no rush and turmoil around the railway station, no struggling

over bewildered swarms of passengers by noisy mobs of hackmen–

all quiet there; flour two hundred dollars a barrel, sugar thirty,

corn ten dollars a bushel, bacon five dollars a pound,

rum a hundred dollars a gallon; other things in proportion:

consequently, no roar and racket of drays and carriages tearing

along the streets; nothing for them to do, among that handful

of non-combatants of exhausted means; at three o’clock in

the morning, silence; silence so dead that the measured tramp

of a sentinel can be heard a seemingly impossible distance; out of

hearing of this lonely sound, perhaps the stillness is absolute:

all in a moment come ground-shaking thunder-crashes of artillery,

the sky is cobwebbed with the crisscrossing red lines streaming

from soaring bomb-shells, and a rain of iron fragments

descends upon the city; descends upon the empty streets:

streets which are not empty a moment later, but mottled with dim

figures of frantic women and children scurrying from home and bed

toward the cave dungeons–encouraged by the humorous grim soldiery,

who shout ‘Rats, to your holes!’ and laugh.

The cannon-thunder rages, shells scream and crash overhead, the iron

rain pours down, one hour, two hours, three, possibly six, then stops;

silence follows, but the streets are still empty; the silence continues;

by-and-bye a head projects from a cave here and there and yonder,

and reconnoitres, cautiously; the silence still continuing,

bodies follow heads, and jaded, half smothered creatures group

themselves about, stretch their cramped limbs, draw in deep draughts

of the grateful fresh air, gossip with the neighbors from the next cave;

maybe straggle off home presently, or take a lounge through the town,

if the stillness continues; and will scurry to the holes again,

by-and-bye, when the war-tempest breaks forth once more.

There being but three thousand of these cave-dwellers–

merely the population of a village–would they not come

to know each other, after a week or two, and familiarly;

insomuch that the fortunate or unfortunate experiences of one

would be of interest to all?

Those are the materials furnished by history. From them might not almost

anybody reproduce for himself the life of that time in Vicksburg?

Could you, who did not experience it, come nearer to reproducing it

to the imagination of another non-participant than could a Vicksburger

who did experience it? It seems impossible; and yet there are reasons

why it might not really be. When one makes his first voyage in a ship,

it is an experience which multitudinously bristles with striking novelties;

novelties which are in such sharp contrast with all this person’s former

experiences that they take a seemingly deathless grip upon his imagination

and memory. By tongue or pen he can make a landsman live that strange

and stirring voyage over with him; make him see it all and feel it all.

But if he wait? If he make ten voyages in succession–what then?

Why, the thing has lost color, snap, surprise; and has become commonplace.

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