LIFE ON THE MISSISSIPPI BY MARK TWAIN

Nevertheless it was intended for an eye that would be swift to see it;

and it was meant to move a kind heart to try to effect the liberation of a

poor reformed and purified fellow lying in the fell grip of consumption.

When I for the first time heard that letter read, nine years ago,

I felt that it was the most remarkable one I had ever encountered.

And it so warmed me toward Mr. Brown of St. Louis that I said that if ever

I visited that city again, I would seek out that excellent man and kiss

the hem of his garment if it was a new one. Well, I visited St. Louis,

but I did not hunt for Mr. Brown; for, alas! the investigations

of long ago had proved that the benevolent Brown, like ‘Jack Hunt,’

was not a real person, but a sheer invention of that gifted rascal,

Williams–burglar, Harvard graduate, son of a clergyman.

Chapter 53

My Boyhood’s Home

WE took passage in one of the fast boats of the St. Louis and St. Paul

Packet Company, and started up the river.

When I, as a boy, first saw the mouth of the Missouri River, it was twenty-two

or twenty-three miles above St. Louis, according to the estimate of pilots;

the wear and tear of the banks have moved it down eight miles since then;

and the pilots say that within five years the river will cut through and

move the mouth down five miles more, which will bring it within ten miles

of St. Louis.

About nightfall we passed the large and flourishing town

of Alton, Illinois; and before daylight next morning the town

of Louisiana, Missouri, a sleepy village in my day, but a brisk

railway center now; however, all the towns out there are

railway centers now. I could not clearly recognize the place.

This seemed odd to me, for when I retired from the rebel army

in ’61 I retired upon Louisiana in good order; at least in good

enough order for a person who had not yet learned how to retreat

according to the rules of war, and had to trust to native genius.

It seemed to me that for a first attempt at a retreat it was

not badly done. I had done no advancing in all that campaign

that was at all equal to it.

There was a railway bridge across the river here well sprinkled

with glowing lights, and a very beautiful sight it was.

At seven in the morning we reached Hannibal, Missouri, where my boyhood

was spent. I had had a glimpse of it fifteen years ago, and another glimpse

six years earlier, but both were so brief that they hardly counted.

The only notion of the town that remained in my mind was the memory

of it as I had known it when I first quitted it twenty-nine years ago.

That picture of it was still as clear and vivid to me as a photograph.

I stepped ashore with the feeling of one who returns out of a

dead-and-gone generation. I had a sort of realizing sense of what

the Bastille prisoners must have felt when they used to come out

and look upon Paris after years of captivity, and note how curiously

the familiar and the strange were mixed together before them.

I saw the new houses–saw them plainly enough–but they did not

affect the older picture in my mind, for through their solid bricks

and mortar I saw the vanished houses, which had formerly stood there,

with perfect distinctness.

It was Sunday morning, and everybody was abed yet. So I passed

through the vacant streets, still seeing the town as it was,

and not as it is, and recognizing and metaphorically shaking

hands with a hundred familiar objects which no longer exist;

and finally climbed Holiday’s Hill to get a comprehensive view.

The whole town lay spread out below me then, and I could mark and fix

every locality, every detail. Naturally, I was a good deal moved.

I said, ‘Many of the people I once knew in this tranquil refuge of my

childhood are now in heaven; some, I trust, are in the other place.’

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