Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

people are not wanting who whisper that he drinks too hard.

I understand he drives a hackney-coach, though how he does it,

unless he stands on the footboard behind, and lies along the roof

upon his chest, with his chin in the box, it would be difficult to

comprehend. He brought his gun with him, as a curiosity.

Christened ‘The Little Rifle,’ and displayed outside a shop-window,

it would make the fortune of any retail business in Holborn. When

he had shown himself and talked a little while, he withdrew with

his pocket-instrument, and went bobbing down the cabin, among men

of six feet high and upwards, like a light-house walking among

lamp-posts.

Within a few minutes afterwards, we were out of the canal, and in

the Ohio river again.

The arrangements of the boat were like those of the Messenger, and

the passengers were of the same order of people. We fed at the

same times, on the same kind of viands, in the same dull manner,

and with the same observances. The company appeared to be

oppressed by the same tremendous concealments, and had as little

capacity of enjoyment or light-heartedness. I never in my life did

see such listless, heavy dulness as brooded over these meals: the

very recollection of it weighs me down, and makes me, for the

moment, wretched. Reading and writing on my knee, in our little

cabin, I really dreaded the coming of the hour that summoned us to

table; and was as glad to escape from it again, as if it had been a

penance or a punishment. Healthy cheerfulness and good spirits

forming a part of the banquet, I could soak my crusts in the

fountain with Le Sage’s strolling player, and revel in their glad

enjoyment: but sitting down with so many fellow-animals to ward

off thirst and hunger as a business; to empty, each creature, his

Yahoo’s trough as quickly as he can, and then slink sullenly away;

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Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

to have these social sacraments stripped of everything but the mere

greedy satisfaction of the natural cravings; goes so against the

grain with me, that I seriously believe the recollection of these

funeral feasts will be a waking nightmare to me all my life.

There was some relief in this boat, too, which there had not been

in the other, for the captain (a blunt, good-natured fellow) had

his handsome wife with him, who was disposed to be lively and

agreeable, as were a few other lady-passengers who had their seats

about us at the same end of the table. But nothing could have made

head against the depressing influence of the general body. There

was a magnetism of dulness in them which would have beaten down the

most facetious companion that the earth ever knew. A jest would

have been a crime, and a smile would have faded into a grinning

horror. Such deadly, leaden people; such systematic plodding,

weary, insupportable heaviness; such a mass of animated indigestion

in respect of all that was genial, jovial, frank, social, or

hearty; never, sure, was brought together elsewhere since the world

began.

Nor was the scenery, as we approached the junction of the Ohio and

Mississippi rivers, at all inspiriting in its influence. The trees

were stunted in their growth; the banks were low and flat; the

settlements and log cabins fewer in number: their inhabitants more

wan and wretched than any we had encountered yet. No songs of

birds were in the air, no pleasant scents, no moving lights and

shadows from swift passing clouds. Hour after hour, the changeless

glare of the hot, unwinking sky, shone upon the same monotonous

objects. Hour after hour, the river rolled along, as wearily and

slowly as the time itself.

At length, upon the morning of the third day, we arrived at a spot

so much more desolate than any we had yet beheld, that the

forlornest places we had passed, were, in comparison with it, full

of interest. At the junction of the two rivers, on ground so flat

and low and marshy, that at certain seasons of the year it is

inundated to the house-tops, lies a breeding-place of fever, ague,

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