Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

God bless that stewardess for her piously fraudulent account of

January voyages! God bless her for her clear recollection of the

companion passage of last year, when nobody was ill, and everybody

dancing from morning to night, and it was ‘a run’ of twelve days,

and a piece of the purest frolic, and delight, and jollity! All

happiness be with her for her bright face and her pleasant Scotch

tongue, which had sounds of old Home in it for my fellow-traveller;

and for her predictions of fair winds and fine weather (all wrong,

or I shouldn’t be half so fond of her); and for the ten thousand

small fragments of genuine womanly tact, by which, without piecing

them elaborately together, and patching them up into shape and form

and case and pointed application, she nevertheless did plainly show

that all young mothers on one side of the Atlantic were near and

close at hand to their little children left upon the other; and

that what seemed to the uninitiated a serious journey, was, to

those who were in the secret, a mere frolic, to be sung about and

whistled at! Light be her heart, and gay her merry eyes, for

years!

The state-room had grown pretty fast; but by this time it had

expanded into something quite bulky, and almost boasted a baywindow

to view the sea from. So we went upon deck again in high

spirits; and there, everything was in such a state of bustle and

active preparation, that the blood quickened its pace, and whirled

through one’s veins on that clear frosty morning with involuntary

mirthfulness. For every gallant ship was riding slowly up and

down, and every little boat was splashing noisily in the water; and

knots of people stood upon the wharf, gazing with a kind of ‘dread

delight’ on the far-famed fast American steamer; and one party of

men were ‘taking in the milk,’ or, in other words, getting the cow

on board; and another were filling the icehouses to the very throat

with fresh provisions; with butchers’-meat and garden-stuff, pale

sucking-pigs, calves’ heads in scores, beef, veal, and pork, and

poultry out of all proportion; and others were coiling ropes and

busy with oakum yarns; and others were lowering heavy packages into

the hold; and the purser’s head was barely visible as it loomed in

a state, of exquisite perplexity from the midst of a vast pile of

passengers’ luggage; and there seemed to be nothing going on

anywhere, or uppermost in the mind of anybody, but preparations for

Page 8

Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

this mighty voyage. This, with the bright cold sun, the bracing

air, the crisply-curling water, the thin white crust of morning ice

upon the decks which crackled with a sharp and cheerful sound

beneath the lightest tread, was irresistible. And when, again upon

the shore, we turned and saw from the vessel’s mast her name

signalled in flags of joyous colours, and fluttering by their side

the beautiful American banner with its stars and stripes, – the

long three thousand miles and more, and, longer still, the six

whole months of absence, so dwindled and faded, that the ship had

gone out and come home again, and it was broad spring already in

the Coburg Dock at Liverpool.

I have not inquired among my medical acquaintance, whether Turtle,

and cold Punch, with Hock, Champagne, and Claret, and all the

slight et cetera usually included in an unlimited order for a good

dinner – especially when it is left to the liberal construction of

my faultless friend, Mr. Radley, of the Adelphi Hotel – are

peculiarly calculated to suffer a sea-change; or whether a plain

mutton-chop, and a glass or two of sherry, would be less likely of

conversion into foreign and disconcerting material. My own opinion

is, that whether one is discreet or indiscreet in these

particulars, on the eve of a sea-voyage, is a matter of little

consequence; and that, to use a common phrase, ‘it comes to very

much the same thing in the end.’ Be this as it may, I know that

the dinner of that day was undeniably perfect; that it comprehended

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