Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

above the Falls, which were originally designed for hotels; and in

the evening time, when the women and children were leaning over the

balconies watching the men as they played at ball and other games

upon the grass before the door, they often presented a little

picture of cheerfulness and animation which made it quite a

pleasure to pass that way.

Page 136

Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

At any garrisoned point where the line of demarcation between one

country and another is so very narrow as at Niagara, desertion from

the ranks can scarcely fail to be of frequent occurrence: and it

may be reasonably supposed that when the soldiers entertain the

wildest and maddest hopes of the fortune and independence that

await them on the other side, the impulse to play traitor, which

such a place suggests to dishonest minds, is not weakened. But it

very rarely happens that the men who do desert, are happy or

contented afterwards; and many instances have been known in which

they have confessed their grievous disappointment, and their

earnest desire to return to their old service if they could but be

assured of pardon, or lenient treatment. Many of their comrades,

notwithstanding, do the like, from time to time; and instances of

loss of life in the effort to cross the river with this object, are

far from being uncommon. Several men were drowned in the attempt

to swim across, not long ago; and one, who had the madness to trust

himself upon a table as a raft, was swept down to the whirlpool,

where his mangled body eddied round and round some days.

I am inclined to think that the noise of the Falls is very much

exaggerated; and this will appear the more probable when the depth

of the great basin in which the water is received, is taken into

account. At no time during our stay there, was the wind at all

high or boisterous, but we never heard them, three miles off, even

at the very quiet time of sunset, though we often tried.

Queenston, at which place the steamboats start for Toronto (or I

should rather say at which place they call, for their wharf is at

Lewiston, on the opposite shore), is situated in a delicious

valley, through which the Niagara river, in colour a very deep

green, pursues its course. It is approached by a road that takes

its winding way among the heights by which the town is sheltered;

and seen from this point is extremely beautiful and picturesque.

On the most conspicuous of these heights stood a monument erected

by the Provincial Legislature in memory of General Brock, who was

slain in a battle with the American forces, after having won the

victory. Some vagabond, supposed to be a fellow of the name of

Lett, who is now, or who lately was, in prison as a felon, blew up

this monument two years ago, and it is now a melancholy ruin, with

a long fragment of iron railing hanging dejectedly from its top,

and waving to and fro like a wild ivy branch or broken vine stem.

It is of much higher importance than it may seem, that this statue

should be repaired at the public cost, as it ought to have been

long ago. Firstly, because it is beneath the dignity of England to

allow a memorial raised in honour of one of her defenders, to

remain in this condition, on the very spot where he died.

Secondly, because the sight of it in its present state, and the

recollection of the unpunished outrage which brought it to this

pass, is not very likely to soothe down border feelings among

English subjects here, or compose their border quarrels and

dislikes.

I was standing on the wharf at this place, watching the passengers

embarking in a steamboat which preceded that whose coming we

awaited, and participating in the anxiety with which a sergeant’s

wife was collecting her few goods together – keeping one distracted

eye hard upon the porters, who were hurrying them on board, and the

other on a hoopless washing-tub for which, as being the most

utterly worthless of all her movables, she seemed to entertain

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