Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

being all huddled together aft, however, to lighten her in the

head, she was soon got off; and after some driving on towards an

uncomfortable line of objects (whose vicinity had been announced

very early in the disaster by a loud cry of ‘Breakers a-head!’) and

much backing of paddles, and heaving of the lead into a constantly

decreasing depth of water, we dropped anchor in a strange

outlandish-looking nook which nobody on board could recognise,

although there was land all about us, and so close that we could

plainly see the waving branches of the trees.

It was strange enough, in the silence of midnight, and the dead

stillness that seemed to be created by the sudden and unexpected

stoppage of the engine which had been clanking and blasting in our

ears incessantly for so many days, to watch the look of blank

astonishment expressed in every face: beginning with the officers,

tracing it through all the passengers, and descending to the very

stokers and furnacemen, who emerged from below, one by one, and

clustered together in a smoky group about the hatchway of the

engine-room, comparing notes in whispers. After throwing up a few

rockets and firing signal guns in the hope of being hailed from the

land, or at least of seeing a light – but without any other sight

or sound presenting itself – it was determined to send a boat on

shore. It was amusing to observe how very kind some of the

passengers were, in volunteering to go ashore in this same boat:

for the general good, of course: not by any means because they

thought the ship in an unsafe position, or contemplated the

possibility of her heeling over in case the tide were running out.

Nor was it less amusing to remark how desperately unpopular the

Page 17

Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

poor pilot became in one short minute. He had had his passage out

from Liverpool, and during the whole voyage had been quite a

notorious character, as a teller of anecdotes and cracker of jokes.

Yet here were the very men who had laughed the loudest at his

jests, now flourishing their fists in his face, loading him with

imprecations, and defying him to his teeth as a villain!

The boat soon shoved off, with a lantern and sundry blue lights on

board; and in less than an hour returned; the officer in command

bringing with him a tolerably tall young tree, which he had plucked

up by the roots, to satisfy certain distrustful passengers whose

minds misgave them that they were to be imposed upon and

shipwrecked, and who would on no other terms believe that he had

been ashore, or had done anything but fraudulently row a little way

into the mist, specially to deceive them and compass their deaths.

Our captain had foreseen from the first that we must be in a place

called the Eastern passage; and so we were. It was about the last

place in the world in which we had any business or reason to be,

but a sudden fog, and some error on the pilot’s part, were the

cause. We were surrounded by banks, and rocks, and shoals of all

kinds, but had happily drifted, it seemed, upon the only safe speck

that was to be found thereabouts. Eased by this report, and by the

assurance that the tide was past the ebb, we turned in at three

o’clock in the morning.

I was dressing about half-past nine next day, when the noise above

hurried me on deck. When I had left it overnight, it was dark,

foggy, and damp, and there were bleak hills all round us. Now, we

were gliding down a smooth, broad stream, at the rate of eleven

miles an hour: our colours flying gaily; our crew rigged out in

their smartest clothes; our officers in uniform again; the sun

shining as on a brilliant April day in England; the land stretched

out on either side, streaked with light patches of snow; white

wooden houses; people at their doors; telegraphs working; flags

hoisted; wharfs appearing; ships; quays crowded with people;

distant noises; shouts; men and boys running down steep places

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