Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

Broadway; a wide and bustling street, which, from the Battery

Gardens to its opposite termination in a country road, may be four

miles long. Shall we sit down in an upper floor of the Carlton

House Hotel (situated in the best part of this main artery of New

York), and when we are tired of looking down upon the life below,

sally forth arm-in-arm, and mingle with the stream?

Warm weather! The sun strikes upon our heads at this open window,

as though its rays were concentrated through a burning-glass; but

the day is in its zenith, and the season an unusual one. Was there

ever such a sunny street as this Broadway! The pavement stones are

polished with the tread of feet until they shine again; the red

bricks of the houses might be yet in the dry, hot kilns; and the

roofs of those omnibuses look as though, if water were poured on

them, they would hiss and smoke, and smell like half-quenched

fires. No stint of omnibuses here! Half-a-dozen have gone by

within as many minutes. Plenty of hackney cabs and coaches too;

gigs, phaetons, large-wheeled tilburies, and private carriages –

rather of a clumsy make, and not very different from the public

vehicles, but built for the heavy roads beyond the city pavement.

Negro coachmen and white; in straw hats, black hats, white hats,

glazed caps, fur caps; in coats of drab, black, brown, green, blue,

nankeen, striped jean and linen; and there, in that one instance

(look while it passes, or it will be too late), in suits of livery.

Some southern republican that, who puts his blacks in uniform, and

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Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

swells with Sultan pomp and power. Yonder, where that phaeton with

the well-clipped pair of grays has stopped – standing at their

heads now – is a Yorkshire groom, who has not been very long in

these parts, and looks sorrowfully round for a companion pair of

top-boots, which he may traverse the city half a year without

meeting. Heaven save the ladies, how they dress! We have seen

more colours in these ten minutes, than we should have seen

elsewhere, in as many days. What various parasols! what rainbow

silks and satins! what pinking of thin stockings, and pinching of

thin shoes, and fluttering of ribbons and silk tassels, and display

of rich cloaks with gaudy hoods and linings! The young gentlemen

are fond, you see, of turning down their shirt-collars and

cultivating their whiskers, especially under the chin; but they

cannot approach the ladies in their dress or bearing, being, to say

the truth, humanity of quite another sort. Byrons of the desk and

counter, pass on, and let us see what kind of men those are behind

ye: those two labourers in holiday clothes, of whom one carries in

his hand a crumpled scrap of paper from which he tries to spell out

a hard name, while the other looks about for it on all the doors

and windows.

Irishmen both! You might know them, if they were masked, by their

long-tailed blue coats and bright buttons, and their drab trousers,

which they wear like men well used to working dresses, who are easy

in no others. It would be hard to keep your model republics going,

without the countrymen and countrywomen of those two labourers.

For who else would dig, and delve, and drudge, and do domestic

work, and make canals and roads, and execute great lines of

Internal Improvement! Irishmen both, and sorely puzzled too, to

find out what they seek. Let us go down, and help them, for the

love of home, and that spirit of liberty which admits of honest

service to honest men, and honest work for honest bread, no matter

what it be.

That’s well! We have got at the right address at last, though it

is written in strange characters truly, and might have been

scrawled with the blunt handle of the spade the writer better knows

the use of, than a pen. Their way lies yonder, but what business

takes them there? They carry savings: to hoard up? No. They are

brothers, those men. One crossed the sea alone, and working very

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