Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

of the tree-tops, like fire.

Page 109

Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

The men get out of the boat first; help out the women; take out the

bag, the chest, the chair; bid the rowers ‘good-bye;’ and shove the

boat off for them. At the first plash of the oars in the water,

the oldest woman of the party sits down in the old chair, close to

the water’s edge, without speaking a word. None of the others sit

down, though the chest is large enough for many seats. They all

stand where they landed, as if stricken into stone; and look after

the boat. So they remain, quite still and silent: the old woman

and her old chair, in the centre the bag and chest upon the shore,

without anybody heeding them all eyes fixed upon the boat. It

comes alongside, is made fast, the men jump on board, the engine is

put in motion, and we go hoarsely on again. There they stand yet,

without the motion of a hand. I can see them through my glass,

when, in the distance and increasing darkness, they are mere specks

to the eye: lingering there still: the old woman in the old

chair, and all the rest about her: not stirring in the least

degree. And thus I slowly lose them.

The night is dark, and we proceed within the shadow of the wooded

bank, which makes it darker. After gliding past the sombre maze of

boughs for a long time, we come upon an open space where the tall

trees are burning. The shape of every branch and twig is expressed

in a deep red glow, and as the light wind stirs and ruffles it,

they seem to vegetate in fire. It is such a sight as we read of in

legends of enchanted forests: saving that it is sad to see these

noble works wasting away so awfully, alone; and to think how many

years must come and go before the magic that created them will rear

their like upon this ground again. But the time will come; and

when, in their changed ashes, the growth of centuries unborn has

struck its roots, the restless men of distant ages will repair to

these again unpeopled solitudes; and their fellows, in cities far

away, that slumber now, perhaps, beneath the rolling sea, will read

in language strange to any ears in being now, but very old to them,

of primeval forests where the axe was never heard, and where the

jungled ground was never trodden by a human foot.

Midnight and sleep blot out these scenes and thoughts: and when

the morning shines again, it gilds the house-tops of a lively city,

before whose broad paved wharf the boat is moored; with other

boats, and flags, and moving wheels, and hum of men around it; as

though there were not a solitary or silent rood of ground within

the compass of a thousand miles.

Cincinnati is a beautiful city; cheerful, thriving, and animated.

I have not often seen a place that commends itself so favourably

and pleasantly to a stranger at the first glance as this does:

with its clean houses of red and white, its well-paved roads, and

foot-ways of bright tile. Nor does it become less prepossessing on

a closer acquaintance. The streets are broad and airy, the shops

extremely good, the private residences remarkable for their

elegance and neatness. There is something of invention and fancy

in the varying styles of these latter erections, which, after the

dull company of the steamboat, is perfectly delightful, as

conveying an assurance that there are such qualities still in

existence. The disposition to ornament these pretty villas and

render them attractive, leads to the culture of trees and flowers,

and the laying out of well-kept gardens, the sight of which, to

those who walk along the streets, is inexpressibly refreshing and

agreeable. I was quite charmed with the appearance of the town,

and its adjoining suburb of Mount Auburn: from which the city,

lying in an amphitheatre of hills, forms a picture of remarkable

beauty, and is seen to great advantage.

There happened to be a great Temperance Convention held here on the

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