Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

taken up.

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Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

‘Any room, sir?’ cries the new passenger to the coachman.

‘Well, there’s room enough,’ replies the coachman, without getting

down, or even looking at him.

‘There an’t no room at all, sir,’ bawls a gentleman inside. Which

another gentleman (also inside) confirms, by predicting that the

attempt to introduce any more passengers ‘won’t fit nohow.’

The new passenger, without any expression of anxiety, looks into

the coach, and then looks up at the coachman: ‘Now, how do you

mean to fix it?’ says he, after a pause: ‘for I MUST go.’

The coachman employs himself in twisting the lash of his whip into

a knot, and takes no more notice of the question: clearly

signifying that it is anybody’s business but his, and that the

passengers would do well to fix it, among themselves. In this

state of things, matters seem to be approximating to a fix of

another kind, when another inside passenger in a corner, who is

nearly suffocated, cries faintly, ‘I’ll get out.’

This is no matter of relief or self-congratulation to the driver,

for his immovable philosophy is perfectly undisturbed by anything

that happens in the coach. Of all things in the world, the coach

would seem to be the very last upon his mind. The exchange is

made, however, and then the passenger who has given up his seat

makes a third upon the box, seating himself in what he calls the

middle; that is, with half his person on my legs, and the other

half on the driver’s.

‘Go a-head, cap’en,’ cries the colonel, who directs.

‘Go-lang!’ cries the cap’en to his company, the horses, and away we

go.

We took up at a rural bar-room, after we had gone a few miles, an

intoxicated gentleman who climbed upon the roof among the luggage,

and subsequently slipping off without hurting himself, was seen in

the distant perspective reeling back to the grog-shop where we had

found him. We also parted with more of our freight at different

times, so that when we came to change horses, I was again alone

outside.

The coachmen always change with the horses, and are usually as

dirty as the coach. The first was dressed like a very shabby

English baker; the second like a Russian peasant: for he wore a

loose purple camlet robe, with a fur collar, tied round his waist

with a parti-coloured worsted sash; grey trousers; light blue

gloves: and a cap of bearskin. It had by this time come on to

rain very heavily, and there was a cold damp mist besides, which

penetrated to the skin. I was glad to take advantage of a stoppage

and get down to stretch my legs, shake the water off my great-coat,

and swallow the usual anti-temperance recipe for keeping out the

cold.

When I mounted to my seat again, I observed a new parcel lying on

the coach roof, which I took to be a rather large fiddle in a brown

bag. In the course of a few miles, however, I discovered that it

had a glazed cap at one end and a pair of muddy shoes at the other

and further observation demonstrated it to be a small boy in a

snuff-coloured coat, with his arms quite pinioned to his sides, by

deep forcing into his pockets. He was, I presume, a relative or

friend of the coachman’s, as he lay a-top of the luggage with his

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Dickens, Charles – American Notes for General Circulation

face towards the rain; and except when a change of position brought

his shoes in contact with my hat, he appeared to be asleep. At

last, on some occasion of our stopping, this thing slowly upreared

itself to the height of three feet six, and fixing its eyes on me,

observed in piping accents, with a complaisant yawn, half quenched

in an obliging air of friendly patronage, ‘Well now, stranger, I

guess you find this a’most like an English arternoon, hey?’

The scenery, which had been tame enough at first, was, for the last

ten or twelve miles, beautiful. Our road wound through the

pleasant valley of the Susquehanna; the river, dotted with

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