A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

the lecturer’s audience consisted of three students–and always

the same three. But one day two of them remained away.

The lecturer began as usual —

“Gentlemen,” –then, without a smile, he corrected himself,

saying —

“Sir,” –and went on with his discourse.

It is said that the vast majority of the Heidelberg students

are hard workers, and make the most of their opportunities;

that they have no surplus means to spend in dissipation,

and no time to spare for frolicking. One lecture follows

right on the heels of another, with very little time

for the student to get out of one hall and into the next;

but the industrious ones manage it by going on a trot.

The professors assist them in the saving of their time

by being promptly in their little boxed-up pulpits when the

hours strike, and as promptly out again when the hour finishes.

I entered an empty lecture-room one day just before the

clock struck. The place had simple, unpainted pine desks

and benches for about two hundred persons.

About a minute before the clock struck, a hundred

and fifty students swarmed in, rushed to their seats,

immediately spread open their notebooks and dipped their

pens in ink. When the clock began to strike, a burly

professor entered, was received with a round of applause,

moved swiftly down the center aisle, said “Gentlemen,”

and began to talk as he climbed his pulpit steps; and by

the time he had arrived in his box and faced his audience,

his lecture was well under way and all the pens were going.

He had no notes, he talked with prodigious rapidity and

energy for an hour–then the students began to remind

him in certain well-understood ways that his time was up;

he seized his hat, still talking, proceeded swiftly down

his pulpit steps, got out the last word of his discourse

as he struck the floor; everybody rose respectfully,

and he swept rapidly down the aisle and disappeared.

An instant rush for some other lecture-room followed,

and in a minute I was alone with the empty benches

once more.

Yes, without doubt, idle students are not the rule.

Out of eight hundred in the town, I knew the faces of only

about fifty; but these I saw everywhere, and daily.

They walked about the streets and the wooded hills,

they drove in cabs, they boated on the river, they sipped

beer and coffee, afternoons, in the Schloss gardens.

A good many of them wore colored caps of the corps.

They were finely and fashionably dressed, their manners

were quite superb, and they led an easy, careless,

comfortable life. If a dozen of them sat together and a lady

or a gentleman passed whom one of them knew and saluted,

they all rose to their feet and took off their caps.

The members of a corps always received a fellow-member

in this way, too; but they paid no attention to members

of other corps; they did not seem to see them. This was not

a discourtesy; it was only a part of the elaborate and rigid

corps etiquette.

There seems to be no chilly distance existing between the

German students and the professor; but, on the contrary,

a companionable intercourse, the opposite of chilliness

and reserve. When the professor enters a beer-hall

in the evening where students are gathered together,

these rise up and take off their caps, and invite the old

gentleman to sit with them and partake. He accepts,

and the pleasant talk and the beer flow for an hour or two,

and by and by the professor, properly charged and comfortable,

gives a cordial good night, while the students stand

bowing and uncovered; and then he moves on his happy

way homeward with all his vast cargo of learning afloat

in his hold. Nobody finds fault or feels outraged;

no harm has been done.

It seemed to be a part of corps etiquette to keep a dog

or so, too. I mean a corps dog–the common property of

the organization, like the corps steward or head servant;

then there are other dogs, owned by individuals.

On a summer afternoon in the Castle gardens, I have

seen six students march solemnly into the grounds,

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