A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

of that lofty region, roped together, as was proper,

a young porter disengaged himself from the line and

started across an ice-bridge which spanned a crevice.

It broke under him with a crash, and he disappeared.

The others could not see how deep he had gone, so it might

be worthwhile to try and rescue him. A brave young guide

named Michel Payot volunteered.

Two ropes were made fast to his leather belt and he bore

the end of a third one in his hand to tie to the victim

in case he found him. He was lowered into the crevice,

he descended deeper and deeper between the clear blue

walls of solid ice, he approached a bend in the crack

and disappeared under it. Down, and still down, he went,

into this profound grave; when he had reached a depth

of eighty feet he passed under another bend in the crack,

and thence descended eighty feet lower, as between

perpendicular precipices. Arrived at this stage of one

hundred and sixty feet below the surface of the glacier,

he peered through the twilight dimness and perceived

that the chasm took another turn and stretched away at

a steep slant to unknown deeps, for its course was lost

in darkness. What a place that was to be in–especially

if that leather belt should break! The compression

of the belt threatened to suffocate the intrepid fellow;

he called to his friends to draw him up, but could not make

them hear. They still lowered him, deeper and deeper.

Then he jerked his third cord as vigorously as he could;

his friends understood, and dragged him out of those icy jaws

of death.

Then they attached a bottle to a cord and sent it down

two hundred feet, but it found no bottom. It came up

covered with congelations–evidence enough that even if

the poor porter reached the bottom with unbroken bones,

a swift death from cold was sure, anyway.

A glacier is a stupendous, ever-progressing, resistless plow.

It pushes ahead of its masses of boulders which are

packed together, and they stretch across the gorge,

right in front of it, like a long grave or a long,

sharp roof. This is called a moraine. It also shoves

out a moraine along each side of its course.

Imposing as the modern glaciers are, they are not so

huge as were some that once existed. For instance,

Mr. Whymper says:

“At some very remote period the Valley of Aosta was occupied

by a vast glacier, which flowed down its entire length from

Mont Blanc to the plain of Piedmont, remained stationary,

or nearly so, at its mouth for many centuries, and deposited

there enormous masses of debris. The length of this

glacier exceeded EIGHTY MILES, and it drained a basin

twenty-five to thirty-five miles across, bounded by the

highest mountains in the Alps. The great peaks rose

several thousand feet above the glaciers, and then, as now,

shattered by sun and frost, poured down their showers of

rocks and stones, in witness of which there are the immense

piles of angular fragments that constitute the moraines of Ivrea.

“The moraines around Ivrea are of extraordinary dimensions.

That which was on the left bank of the glacier is

about THIRTEEN MILES long, and in some places rises

to a height of TWO THOUSAND ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY FEET

above the floor of the valley! The terminal moraines

(those which are pushed in front of the glaciers)

cover something like twenty square miles of country.

At the mouth of the Valley of Aosta, the thickness of

the glacier must have been at least TWO THOUSAND feet,

and its width, at that part, FIVE MILES AND A QUARTER.”

It is not easy to get at a comprehension of a mass of ice

like that. If one could cleave off the butt end of such

a glacier–an oblong block two or three miles wide

by five and a quarter long and two thousand feet thick–

he could completely hide the city of New York under it,

and Trinity steeple would only stick up into it relatively

as far as a shingle-nail would stick up into the bottom

of a Saratoga trunk.

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