A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

This room was very large–it might be called immense–

and it was on the first floor; which means it was in

the second story, for in Europe the houses are so high

that they do not count the first story, else they

would get tired climbing before they got to the top.

The wallpaper was a fiery red, with huge gold figures in it,

well smirched by time, and it covered all the doors.

These doors fitted so snugly and continued the figures

of the paper so unbrokenly, that when they were closed

one had to go feeling and searching along the wall

to find them. There was a stove in the corner–one

of those tall, square, stately white porcelain things

that looks like a monument and keeps you thinking

of death when you ought to be enjoying your travels.

The windows looked out on a little alley, and over that

into a stable and some poultry and pig yards in the rear

of some tenement-houses. There were the customary two beds

in the room, one in one end, the other in the other,

about an old-fashioned brass-mounted, single-barreled

pistol-shot apart. They were fully as narrow as the usual

German bed, too, and had the German bed’s ineradicable

habit of spilling the blankets on the floor every time

you forgot yourself and went to sleep.

A round table as large as King Arthur’s stood in the

center of the room; while the waiters were getting

ready to serve our dinner on it we all went out to see

the renowned clock on the front of the municipal buildings.

CHAPTER XII

[What the Wives Saved]

The RATHHAUS, or municipal building, is of the quaintest

and most picturesque Middle-Age architecture. It has a

massive portico and steps, before it, heavily balustraded,

and adorned with life-sized rusty iron knights in

complete armor. The clock-face on the front of the building

is very large and of curious pattern. Ordinarily, a gilded

angel strikes the hour on a big bell with a hammer;

as the striking ceases, a life-sized figure of Time raises

its hour-glass and turns it; two golden rams advance

and butt each other; a gilded cock lifts its wings;

but the main features are two great angels, who stand

on each side of the dial with long horns at their lips;

it was said that they blew melodious blasts on these

horns every hour–but they did not do it for us.

We were told, later, than they blew only at night,

when the town was still.

Within the RATHHAUS were a number of huge wild boars’

heads, preserved, and mounted on brackets along the wall;

they bore inscriptions telling who killed them and how many

hundred years ago it was done. One room in the building

was devoted to the preservation of ancient archives.

There they showed us no end of aged documents; some were

signed by Popes, some by Tilly and other great generals,

and one was a letter written and subscribed by Go”tz von

Berlichingen in Heilbronn in 1519 just after his release

from the Square Tower.

This fine old robber-knight was a devoutly and sincerely

religious man, hospitable, charitable to the poor,

fearless in fight, active, enterprising, and possessed

of a large and generous nature. He had in him a

quality of being able to overlook moderate injuries,

and being able to forgive and forget mortal ones as

soon as he had soundly trounced the authors of them.

He was prompt to take up any poor devil’s quarrel and risk

his neck to right him. The common folk held him dear,

and his memory is still green in ballad and tradition.

He used to go on the highway and rob rich wayfarers;

and other times he would swoop down from his high castle

on the hills of the Neckar and capture passing cargoes

of merchandise. In his memoirs he piously thanks the

Giver of all Good for remembering him in his needs and

delivering sundry such cargoes into his hands at times

when only special providences could have relieved him.

He was a doughty warrior and found a deep joy in battle.

In an assault upon a stronghold in Bavaria when he was

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