A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

The organ was muttering, censers were swinging, candles were

glinting on the distant altar and robed priests were

filing silently past them; the scene was one to sweep all

frivolous thoughts away and steep the soul in a holy calm.

A trim young American lady paused a yard or two from me,

fixed her eyes on the mellow sparks flecking the far-off altar,

bent her head reverently a moment, then straightened up,

kicked her train into the air with her heel, caught it

deftly in her hand, and marched briskly out.

We visited the picture-galleries and the other regulation

“sights”

of Milan–not because I wanted to write about them again,

but to see if I had learned anything in twelve years.

I afterward visited the great galleries of Rome and

Florence for the same purpose. I found I had learned

one thing. When I wrote about the Old Masters before,

I said the copies were better than the originals.

That was a mistake of large dimensions. The Old Masters

were still unpleasing to me, but they were truly divine

contrasted with the copies. The copy is to the original

as the pallid, smart, inane new wax-work group is to

the vigorous, earnest, dignified group of living men

and women whom it professes to duplicate. There is a

mellow richness, a subdued color, in the old pictures,

which is to the eye what muffled and mellowed sound

is to the ear. That is the merit which is most loudly

praised in the old picture, and is the one which the copy

most conspicuously lacks, and which the copyist must

not hope to compass. It was generally conceded by the

artists with whom I talked, that that subdued splendor,

that mellow richness, is imparted to the picture by AGE.

Then why should we worship the Old Master for it,

who didn’t impart it, instead of worshiping Old Time,

who did? Perhaps the picture was a clanging bell,

until Time muffled it and sweetened it.

In conversation with an artist in Venice, I asked: “What

is it that people see in the Old Masters? I have been in the

Doge’s palace and I saw several acres of very bad drawing,

very bad perspective, and very incorrect proportions.

Paul Veronese’s dogs to not resemble dogs; all the horses

look like bladders on legs; one man had a RIGHT leg on

the left side of his body; in the large picture where

the Emperor (Barbarossa?) is prostrate before the Pope,

there are three men in the foreground who are over

thirty feet high, if one may judge by the size of a

kneeling little boy in the center of the foreground;

and according to the same scale, the Pope is seven feet

high and the Doge is a shriveled dwarf of four feet.”

The artist said:

“Yes, the Old Masters often drew badly; they did not

care much for truth and exactness in minor details;

but after all, in spite of bad drawing, bad perspective,

bad proportions, and a choice of subjects which no longer

appeal to people as strongly as they did three hundred

years ago, there is a SOMETHING about their pictures

which is divine–a something which is above and beyond

the art of any epoch since–a something which would be

the despair of artists but that they never hope or expect

to attain it, and therefore do not worry about it.”

That is what he said–and he said what he believed;

and not only believed, but felt.

Reasoning–especially reasoning, without technical

knowledge–must be put aside, in cases of this kind.

It cannot assist the inquirer. It will lead him,

in the most logical progression, to what, in the eyes

of artists, would be a most illogical conclusion.

Thus: bad drawing, bad proportion, bad perspective,

indifference to truthful detail, color which gets its

merit from time, and not from the artist–these things

constitute the Old Master; conclusion, the Old Master

was a bad painter, the Old Master was not an Old Master

at all, but an Old Apprentice. Your friend the artist

will grant your premises, but deny your conclusion;

he will maintain that notwithstanding this formidable

list of confessed defects, there is still a something

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