A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

I did think the indecency of running on in that way might

occur to him; but no, the child was saved and he was glad,

that was sufficient–he cared not a straw for MY feelings,

or my loss of such a literary plum, snatched from my

very mouth at the instant it was ready to drop into it.

His selfishness was sufficient to place his own gratification

in being spared suffering clear before all concern for me,

his friend. Apparently, he did not once reflect upon the

valuable details which would have fallen like a windfall

to me: fishing the child out–witnessing the surprise of

the family and the stir the thing would have made among the

peasants–then a Swiss funeral–then the roadside monument,

to be paid for by us and have our names mentioned in it.

And we should have gone into Baedeker and been immortal.

I was silent. I was too much hurt to complain. If he could

act so, and be so heedless and so frivolous at such a time,

and actually seem to glory in it, after all I had done for him,

I would have cut my hand off before I would let him see

that I was wounded.

We were approaching Zermatt; consequently, we were

approaching the renowned Matterhorn. A month before,

this mountain had been only a name to us, but latterly

we had been moving through a steadily thickening double

row of pictures of it, done in oil, water, chromo, wood,

steel, copper, crayon, and photography, and so it had at

length become a shape to us–and a very distinct, decided,

and familiar one, too. We were expecting to recognize

that mountain whenever or wherever we should run across it.

We were not deceived. The monarch was far away when we

first saw him, but there was no such thing as mistaking him.

He has the rare peculiarity of standing by himself;

he is peculiarly steep, too, and is also most oddly shaped.

He towers into the sky like a colossal wedge, with the

upper third of its blade bent a little to the left.

The broad base of this monster wedge is planted upon

a grand glacier-paved Alpine platform whose elevation

is ten thousand feet above sea-level; as the wedge itself

is some five thousand feet high, it follows that its

apex is about fifteen thousand feet above sea-level.

So the whole bulk of this stately piece of rock, this

sky-cleaving monolith, is above the line of eternal snow.

Yet while all its giant neighbors have the look of being

built of solid snow, from their waists up, the Matterhorn

stands black and naked and forbidding, the year round,

or merely powdered or streaked with white in places,

for its sides are so steep that the snow cannot stay there.

Its strange form, its august isolation, and its majestic

unkinship with its own kind, make it–so to speak–the Napoleon

of the mountain world. “Grand, gloomy, and peculiar,”

is a phrase which fits it as aptly as it fitted the great

captain.

Think of a monument a mile high, standing on a pedestal

two miles high! This is what the Matterhorn is–a monument.

Its office, henceforth, for all time, will be to keep

watch and ward over the secret resting-place of the young

Lord Douglas, who, in 1865, was precipitated from the

summit over a precipice four thousand feet high, and never

seen again. No man ever had such a monument as this before;

the most imposing of the world’s other monuments are

but atoms compared to it; and they will perish, and their

places will pass from memory, but this will remain. [1]

1. The accident which cost Lord Douglas his life (see

Chapter xii) also cost the lives of three other men.

These three fell four-fifths of a mile, and their bodies

were afterward found, lying side by side, upon a glacier,

whence they were borne to Zermatt and buried in the

churchyard.

The remains of Lord Douglas have never been found.

The secret of his sepulture, like that of Moses, must remain

a mystery always.

A walk from St. Nicholas to Zermatt is a wonderful experience.

Nature is built on a stupendous plan in that region.

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