A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

I shook my head.

“Twenty-seven! It is a cruel loss, it is ruin–

but take them, only take them.”

I still retreated, still wagging my head.

“MON DIEU, they shall even go for twenty-six! There,

I have said it. Come!”

I wagged another negative. A nurse and a little English girl

had been near me, and were following me, now. The shopwoman

ran to the nurse, thrust the beads into her hands, and said:

“Monsieur shall have them for twenty-five! Take them

to the hotel–he shall send me the money tomorrow–

next day–when he likes.” Then to the child: “When thy

father sends me the money, come thou also, my angel,

and thou shall have something oh so pretty!”

I was thus providentially saved. The nurse refused

the beads squarely and firmly, and that ended the matter.

The “sights” of Geneva are not numerous. I made one

attempt to hunt up the houses once inhabited by those

two disagreeable people, Rousseau and Calvin, but I had

no success. Then I concluded to go home. I found it was

easier to propose to do that than to do it; for that town

is a bewildering place. I got lost in a tangle of narrow

and crooked streets, and stayed lost for an hour or two.

Finally I found a street which looked somewhat familiar,

and said to myself, “Now I am at home, I judge.” But I

was wrong; this was “HELL street.” Presently I found

another place which had a familiar look, and said to myself,

“Now I am at home, sure.” It was another error. This was

“PURGATORY street.” After a little I said, “NOW I’ve got the

right place, anyway … no, this is ‘PARADISE street’;

I’m further from home than I was in the beginning.”

Those were queer names–Calvin was the author of them,

likely. “Hell” and “Purgatory” fitted those two streets

like a glove, but the “Paradise” appeared to be sarcastic.

I came out on the lake-front, at last, and then I knew

where I was. I was walking along before the glittering

jewelry shops when I saw a curious performance.

A lady passed by, and a trim dandy lounged across the walk

in such an apparently carefully timed way as to bring

himself exactly in front of her when she got to him;

he made no offer to step out of the way; he did not apologize;

he did not even notice her. She had to stop still and let

him lounge by. I wondered if he had done that piece

of brutality purposely. He strolled to a chair and seated

himself at a small table; two or three other males were

sitting at similar tables sipping sweetened water.

I waited; presently a youth came by, and this fellow got

up and served him the same trick. Still, it did not seem

possible that any one could do such a thing deliberately.

To satisfy my curiosity I went around the block, and,

sure enough, as I approached, at a good round speed, he got

up and lounged lazily across my path, fouling my course

exactly at the right moment to receive all my weight.

This proved that his previous performances had not

been accidental, but intentional.

I saw that dandy’s curious game played afterward, in Paris,

but not for amusement; not with a motive of any sort, indeed,

but simply from a selfish indifference to other people’s

comfort and rights. One does not see it as frequently

in Paris as he might expect to, for there the law says,

in effect, “It is the business of the weak to get out of

the way of the strong.” We fine a cabman if he runs over

a citizen; Paris fines the citizen for being run over.

At least so everybody says–but I saw something which

caused me to doubt; I saw a horseman run over an old woman

one day–the police arrested him and took him away.

That looked as if they meant to punish him.

It will not do for me to find merit in American manners–

for are they not the standing butt for the jests

of critical and polished Europe? Still, I must venture

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