A TRAMP ABROAD By Mark Twain

occasion the spirit of Saint Louis had descended upon him.

It must have found pretty cramped quarters. If Napoleon

the First had stood in the shoes of Louis XVI that day,

instead of being merely a casual and unknown looker-on,

there would be no Lion of Lucerne, now, but there would

be a well-stocked Communist graveyard in Paris which would

answer just as well to remember the 10th of August by.

Martyrdom made a saint of Mary Queen of Scots three

hundred years ago, and she has hardly lost all of her

saintship yet. Martyrdom made a saint of the trivial

and foolish Marie Antoinette, and her biographers still

keep her fragrant with the odor of sanctity to this day,

while unconsciously proving upon almost every page they write

that the only calamitous instinct which her husband lacked,

she supplied–the instinct to root out and get rid of

an honest, able, and loyal official, wherever she found him.

The hideous but beneficent French Revolution would have

been deferred, or would have fallen short of completeness,

or even might not have happened at all, if Marie

Antoinette had made the unwise mistake of not being born.

The world owes a great deal to the French Revolution,

and consequently to its two chief promoters, Louis the

Poor in Spirit and his queen.

We did not buy any wooden images of the Lion, nor any ivory

or ebony or marble or chalk or sugar or chocolate ones,

or even any photographic slanders of him. The truth is,

these copies were so common, so universal, in the shops

and everywhere, that they presently became as intolerable

to the wearied eye as the latest popular melody usually

becomes to the harassed ear. In Lucerne, too, the wood

carvings of other sorts, which had been so pleasant to look

upon when one saw them occasionally at home, soon began

to fatigue us. We grew very tired of seeing wooden quails

and chickens picking and struting around clock-faces,

and still more tired of seeing wooden images of the alleged

chamois skipping about wooden rocks, or lying upon them

in family groups, or peering alertly up from behind them.

The first day, I would have bought a hundred and fifty

of these clocks if I had the money–and I did buy three–

but on the third day the disease had run its course,

I had convalesced, and was in the market once more–trying

to sell. However, I had no luck; which was just as well,

for the things will be pretty enough, no doubt, when I get

them home.

For years my pet aversion had been the cuckoo clock;

now here I was, at last, right in the creature’s home;

so wherever I went that distressing “HOO’hoo! HOO’hoo!

HOO’hoo!” was always in my ears. For a nervous man,

this was a fine state of things. Some sounds are hatefuler

than others, but no sound is quite so inane, and silly,

and aggravating as the “HOO’hoo” of a cuckoo clock, I think.

I bought one, and am carrying it home to a certain person;

for I have always said that if the opportunity ever happened,

I would do that man an ill turn. What I meant, was, that I

would break one of his legs, or something of that sort;

but in Lucerne I instantly saw that I could impair his mind.

That would be more lasting, and more satisfactory every way.

So I bought the cuckoo clock; and if I ever get home

with it, he is “my meat,” as they say in the mines.

I thought of another candidate–a book-reviewer whom

I could name if I wanted to–but after thinking

it over, I didn’t buy him a clock. I couldn’t injure

his mind.

We visited the two long, covered wooden bridges which span

the green and brilliant Reuss just below where it goes

plunging and hurrahing out of the lake. These rambling,

sway-backed tunnels are very attractive things, with their

alcoved outlooks upon the lovely and inspiriting water.

They contain two or three hundred queer old pictures,

by old Swiss masters–old boss sign-painters, who flourished

before the decadence of art.

The lake is alive with fishes, plainly visible to the eye,

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