WHAT IS MAN? AND OTHER ESSAYS OF MARK TWAIN

the church where the funeral services would be held. It is small

and old and severely plain, plastered outside and whitewashed or

painted, and with no ornament but a statue of a monk in a niche

over the door, and above that a small black flag. But in its

crypt lie several of the great dead of the House of Habsburg,

among them Maria Theresa and Napoleon’s son, the Duke of Reichstadt.

Hereabouts was a Roman camp, once, and in it the Emperor Marcus

Aurelius died a thousand years before the first Habsburg ruled

in Vienna, which was six hundred years ago and more.

The little church is packed in among great modern stores and

houses, and the windows of them were full of people. Behind the

vast plate-glass windows of the upper floors of the house on the

corner one glimpsed terraced masses of fine-clothed men and

women, dim and shimmery, like people under water. Under us the

square was noiseless, but it was full of citizens; officials in

fine uniforms were flitting about on errands, and in a doorstep

sat a figure in the uttermost raggedness of poverty, the feet

bare, the head bent humbly down; a youth of eighteen or twenty,

he was, and through the field-glass one could see that he was

tearing apart and munching riffraff that he had gathered

somewhere. Blazing uniforms flashed by him, making a sparkling

contrast with his drooping ruin of moldy rags, but he took not

notice; he was not there to grieve for a nation’s disaster; he

had his own cares, and deeper. From two directions two long

files of infantry came plowing through the pack and press in

silence; there was a low, crisp order and the crowd vanished, the

square save the sidewalks was empty, the private mourner was

gone. Another order, the soldiers fell apart and enclosed the

square in a double-ranked human fence. It was all so swift,

noiseless, exact–like a beautifully ordered machine.

It was noon, now. Two hours of stillness and waiting

followed. Then carriages began to flow past and deliver the two

and three hundred court personages and high nobilities privileged

to enter the church. Then the square filled up; not with

civilians, but with army and navy officers in showy and beautiful

uniforms. They filled it compactly, leaving only a narrow

carriage path in front of the church, but there was no civilian

among them. And it was better so; dull clothes would have marred

the radiant spectacle. In the jam in front of the church, on its

steps, and on the sidewalk was a bunch of uniforms which made a

blazing splotch of color–intense red, gold, and white–which

dimmed the brilliancies around them; and opposite them on the

other side of the path was a bunch of cascaded bright-green

plumes above pale-blue shoulders which made another splotch of

splendor emphatic and conspicuous in its glowing surroundings.

It was a sea of flashing color all about, but these two groups

were the high notes. The green plumes were worn by forty or

fifty Austrian generals, the group opposite them were chiefly

Knights of Malta and knights of a German order. The mass of

heads in the square were covered by gilt helmets and by military

caps roofed with a mirror-like gaze, and the movements of the

wearers caused these things to catch the sun-rays, and the effect

was fine to see–the square was like a garden of richly colored

flowers with a multitude of blinding and flashing little suns

distributed over it.

Think of it–it was by command of that Italian loafer yonder

on his imperial throne in the Geneva prison that this splendid

multitude was assembled there; and the kings and emperors that

were entering the church from a side street were there by his will.

It is so strange, so unrealizable.

At three o’clock the carriages were still streaming by in

single file. At three-five a cardinal arrives with his

attendants; later some bishops; then a number of archdeacons–all

in striking colors that add to the show. At three-ten a

procession of priests passed along, with crucifix. Another one,

presently; after an interval, two more; at three-fifty another

one–very long, with many crosses, gold-embroidered robes, and

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