Roughing It by Mark Twain

of New York’s streets. I will remind the reader that in Pennsylvania a

coal vein only eight feet wide is considered ample.

Virginia was a busy city of streets and houses above ground. Under it

was another busy city, down in the bowels of the earth, where a great

population of men thronged in and out among an intricate maze of tunnels

and drifts, flitting hither and thither under a winking sparkle of

lights, and over their heads towered a vast web of interlocking timbers

that held the walls of the gutted Comstock apart. These timbers were as

large as a man’s body, and the framework stretched upward so far that no

eye could pierce to its top through the closing gloom. It was like

peering up through the clean-picked ribs and bones of some colossal

skeleton. Imagine such a framework two miles long, sixty feet wide, and

higher than any church spire in America. Imagine this stately lattice-

work stretching down Broadway, from the St. Nicholas to Wall street, and

a Fourth of July procession, reduced to pigmies, parading on top of it

and flaunting their flags, high above the pinnacle of Trinity steeple.

One can imagine that, but he cannot well imagine what that forest of

timbers cost, from the time they were felled in the pineries beyond

Washoe Lake, hauled up and around Mount Davidson at atrocious rates of

freightage, then squared, let down into the deep maw of the mine and

built up there. Twenty ample fortunes would not timber one of the

greatest of those silver mines. The Spanish proverb says it requires a

gold mine to “run” a silver one, and it is true. A beggar with a silver

mine is a pitiable pauper indeed if he cannot sell.

I spoke of the underground Virginia as a city. The Gould and Curry is

only one single mine under there, among a great many others; yet the

Gould and Curry’s streets of dismal drifts and tunnels were five miles in

extent, altogether, and its population five hundred miners. Taken as a

whole, the underground city had some thirty miles of streets and a

population of five or six thousand. In this present day some of those

populations are at work from twelve to sixteen hundred feet under

Virginia and Gold Hill, and the signal-bells that tell them what the

superintendent above ground desires them to do are struck by telegraph as

we strike a fire alarm. Sometimes men fall down a shaft, there, a

thousand feet deep. In such cases, the usual plan is to hold an inquest.

If you wish to visit one of those mines, you may walk through a tunnel

about half a mile long if you prefer it, or you may take the quicker plan

of shooting like a dart down a shaft, on a small platform. It is like

tumbling down through an empty steeple, feet first. When you reach the

bottom, you take a candle and tramp through drifts and tunnels where

throngs of men are digging and blasting; you watch them send up tubs full

of great lumps of stone–silver ore; you select choice specimens from the

mass, as souvenirs; you admire the world of skeleton timbering; you

reflect frequently that you are buried under a mountain, a thousand feet

below daylight; being in the bottom of the mine you climb from “gallery”

to “gallery,” up endless ladders that stand straight up and down; when

your legs fail you at last, you lie down in a small box-car in a cramped

“incline” like a half-up-ended sewer and are dragged up to daylight

feeling as if you are crawling through a coffin that has no end to it.

Arrived at the top, you find a busy crowd of men receiving the ascending

cars and tubs and dumping the ore from an elevation into long rows of

bins capable of holding half a dozen tons each; under the bins are rows

of wagons loading from chutes and trap-doors in the bins, and down the

long street is a procession of these wagons wending toward the silver

mills with their rich freight. It is all “done,” now, and there you are.

You need never go down again, for you have seen it all. If you have

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