Roughing It by Mark Twain

of Oahu three quarters of a century ago, and exterminated the army sent

to oppose him, and took full and final possession of the country, he

searched out the dead body of the King of Oahu, and those of the

principal chiefs, and impaled their heads on the walls of this temple.

Those were savage times when this old slaughter-house was in its prime.

The King and the chiefs ruled the common herd with a rod of iron; made

them gather all the provisions the masters needed; build all the houses

and temples; stand all the expenses, of whatever kind; take kicks and

cuffs for thanks; drag out lives well flavored with misery, and then

suffer death for trifling offences or yield up their lives on the

sacrificial altars to purchase favors from the gods for their hard

rulers. The missionaries have clothed them, educated them, broken up the

tyrannous authority of their chiefs, and given them freedom and the right

to enjoy whatever their hands and brains produce with equal laws for all,

and punishment for all alike who transgress them. The contrast is so

strong–the benefit conferred upon this people by the missionaries is so

prominent, so palpable and so unquestionable, that the frankest

compliment I can pay them, and the best, is simply to point to the

condition of the Sandwich Islanders of Captain Cook’s time, and their

condition to-day.

Their work speaks for itself.

CHAPTER LXV.

By and by, after a rugged climb, we halted on the summit of a hill which

commanded a far-reaching view. The moon rose and flooded mountain and

valley and ocean with a mellow radiance, and out of the shadows of the

foliage the distant lights of Honolulu glinted like an encampment of

fireflies. The air was heavy with the fragrance of flowers. The halt

was brief.–Gayly laughing and talking, the party galloped on, and I

clung to the pommel and cantered after. Presently we came to a place

where no grass grew–a wide expanse of deep sand. They said it was an

old battle ground. All around everywhere, not three feet apart, the

bleached bones of men gleamed white in the moonlight. We picked up a lot

of them for mementoes. I got quite a number of arm bones and leg bones–

of great chiefs, may be, who had fought savagely in that fearful battle

in the old days, when blood flowed like wine where we now stood–and wore

the choicest of them out on Oahu afterward, trying to make him go. All

sorts of bones could be found except skulls; but a citizen said,

irreverently, that there had been an unusual number of “skull-hunters”

there lately–a species of sportsmen I had never heard of before.

Nothing whatever is known about this place–its story is a secret that

will never be revealed. The oldest natives make no pretense of being

possessed of its history. They say these bones were here when they were

children. They were here when their grandfathers were children–but how

they came here, they can only conjecture. Many people believe this spot

to be an ancient battle-ground, and it is usual to call it so; and they

believe that these skeletons have lain for ages just where their

proprietors fell in the great fight. Other people believe that

Kamehameha I. fought his first battle here. On this point, I have heard

a story, which may have been taken from one of the numerous books which

have been written concerning these islands–I do not know where the

narrator got it. He said that when Kamehameha (who was at first merely a

subordinate chief on the island of Hawaii), landed here, he brought a

large army with him, and encamped at Waikiki. The Oahuans marched

against him, and so confident were they of success that they readily

acceded to a demand of their priests that they should draw a line where

these bones now lie, and take an oath that, if forced to retreat at all,

they would never retreat beyond this boundary. The priests told them

that death and everlasting punishment would overtake any who violated the

oath, and the march was resumed. Kamehameha drove them back step by

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