Roughing It by Mark Twain

Moonlight Scene–Fruits and Plantations

CHAPTER LXX.

A Droll Character–Mrs. Beazely and Her Son–Meditations on Turnips–A

Letter from Horace Greeley–An Indignant Rejoinder–The Letter Translated

but too Late

CHAPTER LXXI.

Kealakekua Bay–Death of Captain Cook–His Monument–Its Construction–On

Board the Schooner

CHAPTER LXXII.

Young Kanakas in New England–A Temple Built by Ghosts–Female Bathers–I

Stood Guard–Women and Whiskey–A Fight for Religion–Arrival of

Missionaries

CHAPTER LXXIII.

Native Canoes–Surf Bathing–A Sanctuary–How Built–The Queen’s Rock–

Curiosities–Petrified Lava

CHAPTER LXXIV.

Visit to the Volcano–The Crater–Pillar of Fire–Magnificent Spectacle–

A Lake of Fire

CHAPTER LXXV.

The North Lake–Fountains of Fire–Streams of Burning Lava–Tidal Waves

CHAPTER LXXVI.

A Reminiscence–Another Horse Story–My Ride with the Retired Milk Horse-

-A Picnicing Excursion–Dead Volcano of Holeakala–Comparison with

Vesuvius–An Inside View

CHAPTER LXXVII.

A Curious Character–A Series of Stories–Sad Fate of a Liar–Evidence of

Insanity

CHAPTER LXXVIII.

Return to San Francisco–Ship Amusements–Preparing for Lecturing–

Valuable Assistance Secured–My First Attempt–The Audience Carried–

“All’s Well that Ends Well.”

CHAPTER LXXIX.

Highwaymen–A Predicament–A Huge Joke–Farewell to California–At Home

Again–Great Changes. Moral.

APPENDIX.

A.–Brief Sketch of Mormon History

B.–The Mountain Meadows Massacre

C.–Concerning a Frightful Assassination that was never Consummated

CHAPTER I.

My brother had just been appointed Secretary of Nevada Territory–an

office of such majesty that it concentrated in itself the duties and

dignities of Treasurer, Comptroller, Secretary of State, and Acting

Governor in the Governor’s absence. A salary of eighteen hundred dollars

a year and the title of “Mr. Secretary,” gave to the great position an

air of wild and imposing grandeur. I was young and ignorant, and I

envied my brother. I coveted his distinction and his financial splendor,

but particularly and especially the long, strange journey he was going to

make, and the curious new world he was going to explore. He was going to

travel! I never had been away from home, and that word “travel” had a

seductive charm for me. Pretty soon he would be hundreds and hundreds of

miles away on the great plains and deserts, and among the mountains of

the Far West, and would see buffaloes and Indians, and prairie dogs, and

antelopes, and have all kinds of adventures, and may be get hanged or

scalped, and have ever such a fine time, and write home and tell us all

about it, and be a hero. And he would see the gold mines and the silver

mines, and maybe go about of an afternoon when his work was done, and

pick up two or three pailfuls of shining slugs, and nuggets of gold and

silver on the hillside. And by and by he would become very rich, and

return home by sea, and be able to talk as calmly about San Francisco and

the ocean, and “the isthmus” as if it was nothing of any consequence to

have seen those marvels face to face. What I suffered in contemplating

his happiness, pen cannot describe. And so, when he offered me, in cold

blood, the sublime position of private secretary under him, it appeared

to me that the heavens and the earth passed away, and the firmament was

rolled together as a scroll! I had nothing more to desire. My

contentment was complete.

At the end of an hour or two I was ready for the journey. Not much

packing up was necessary, because we were going in the overland stage

from the Missouri frontier to Nevada, and passengers were only allowed a

small quantity of baggage apiece. There was no Pacific railroad in those

fine times of ten or twelve years ago–not a single rail of it.

I only proposed to stay in Nevada three months–I had no thought of

staying longer than that. I meant to see all I could that was new and

strange, and then hurry home to business. I little thought that I would

not see the end of that three-month pleasure excursion for six or seven

uncommonly long years!

I dreamed all night about Indians, deserts, and silver bars, and in due

time, next day, we took shipping at the St. Louis wharf on board a

steamboat bound up the Missouri River.

We were six days going from St. Louis to “St. Jo.”–a trip that was so

dull, and sleepy, and eventless that it has left no more impression on my

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