Roughing It by Mark Twain

extravagant–but what does the sixteenth chapter of Daniel say? Aha!]

CHAPTER XXI.

We were approaching the end of our long journey. It was the morning of

the twentieth day. At noon we would reach Carson City, the capital of

Nevada Territory. We were not glad, but sorry. It had been a fine

pleasure trip; we had fed fat on wonders every day; we were now well

accustomed to stage life, and very fond of it; so the idea of coming to a

stand-still and settling down to a humdrum existence in a village was not

agreeable, but on the contrary depressing.

Visibly our new home was a desert, walled in by barren, snow-clad

mountains. There was not a tree in sight. There was no vegetation but

the endless sage-brush and greasewood. All nature was gray with it. We

were plowing through great deeps of powdery alkali dust that rose in

thick clouds and floated across the plain like smoke from a burning

house.

We were coated with it like millers; so were the coach, the mules, the

mail-bags, the driver–we and the sage-brush and the other scenery were

all one monotonous color. Long trains of freight wagons in the distance

envelope in ascending masses of dust suggested pictures of prairies on

fire. These teams and their masters were the only life we saw.

Otherwise we moved in the midst of solitude, silence and desolation.

Every twenty steps we passed the skeleton of some dead beast of burthen,

with its dust-coated skin stretched tightly over its empty ribs.

Frequently a solemn raven sat upon the skull or the hips and contemplated

the passing coach with meditative serenity.

By and by Carson City was pointed out to us. It nestled in the edge of a

great plain and was a sufficient number of miles away to look like an

assemblage of mere white spots in the shadow of a grim range of mountains

overlooking it, whose summits seemed lifted clear out of companionship

and consciousness of earthly things.

We arrived, disembarked, and the stage went on. It was a “wooden” town;

its population two thousand souls. The main street consisted of four or

five blocks of little white frame stores which were too high to sit down

on, but not too high for various other purposes; in fact, hardly high

enough. They were packed close together, side by side, as if room were

scarce in that mighty plain.

The sidewalk was of boards that were more or less loose and inclined to

rattle when walked upon. In the middle of the town, opposite the stores,

was the “plaza” which is native to all towns beyond the Rocky Mountains–

a large, unfenced, level vacancy, with a liberty pole in it, and very

useful as a place for public auctions, horse trades, and mass meetings,

and likewise for teamsters to camp in. Two other sides of the plaza were

faced by stores, offices and stables.

The rest of Carson City was pretty scattering.

We were introduced to several citizens, at the stage-office and on the

way up to the Governor’s from the hotel–among others, to a Mr. Harris,

who was on horseback; he began to say something, but interrupted himself

with the remark:

“I’ll have to get you to excuse me a minute; yonder is the witness that

swore I helped to rob the California coach–a piece of impertinent

intermeddling, sir, for I am not even acquainted with the man.”

Then he rode over and began to rebuke the stranger with a six-shooter,

and the stranger began to explain with another. When the pistols were

emptied, the stranger resumed his work (mending a whip-lash), and Mr.

Harris rode by with a polite nod, homeward bound, with a bullet through

one of his lungs, and several in his hips; and from them issued little

rivulets of blood that coursed down the horse’s sides and made the animal

look quite picturesque. I never saw Harris shoot a man after that but it

recalled to mind that first day in Carson.

This was all we saw that day, for it was two o’clock, now, and according

to custom the daily “Washoe Zephyr” set in; a soaring dust-drift about

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