Roughing It by Mark Twain

squatting in the shade on their hams, in true native fashion, and

surrounded by purchasers. (The Sandwich Islanders always squat on their

hams, and who knows but they may be the old original “ham sandwiches?”

The thought is pregnant with interest.) The poi looks like common flour

paste, and is kept in large bowls formed of a species of gourd, and

capable of holding from one to three or four gallons. Poi is the chief

article of food among the natives, and is prepared from the taro plant.

The taro root looks like a thick, or, if you please, a corpulent sweet

potato, in shape, but is of a light purple color when boiled. When

boiled it answers as a passable substitute for bread. The buck Kanakas

bake it under ground, then mash it up well with a heavy lava pestle, mix

water with it until it becomes a paste, set it aside and let if ferment,

and then it is poi–and an unseductive mixture it is, almost tasteless

before it ferments and too sour for a luxury afterward. But nothing is

more nutritious. When solely used, however, it produces acrid humors, a

fact which sufficiently accounts for the humorous character of the

Kanakas. I think there must be as much of a knack in handling poi as

there is in eating with chopsticks. The forefinger is thrust into the

mess and stirred quickly round several times and drawn as quickly out,

thickly coated, just as it it were poulticed; the head is thrown back,

the finger inserted in the mouth and the delicacy stripped off and

swallowed–the eye closing gently, meanwhile, in a languid sort of

ecstasy. Many a different finger goes into the same bowl and many a

different kind of dirt and shade and quality of flavor is added to the

virtues of its contents.

Around a small shanty was collected a crowd of natives buying the awa

root. It is said that but for the use of this root the destruction of

the people in former times by certain imported diseases would have been

far greater than it was, and by others it is said that this is merely a

fancy. All agree that poi will rejuvenate a man who is used up and his

vitality almost annihilated by hard drinking, and that in some kinds of

diseases it will restore health after all medicines have failed; but all

are not willing to allow to the awa the virtues claimed for it. The

natives manufacture an intoxicating drink from it which is fearful in its

effects when persistently indulged in. It covers the body with dry,

white scales, inflames the eyes, and causes premature decripitude.

Although the man before whose establishment we stopped has to pay a

Government license of eight hundred dollars a year for the exclusive

right to sell awa root, it is said that he makes a small fortune every

twelve-month; while saloon keepers, who pay a thousand dollars a year for

the privilege of retailing whiskey, etc., only make a bare living.

We found the fish market crowded; for the native is very fond of fish,

and eats the article raw and alive! Let us change the subject.

In old times here Saturday was a grand gala day indeed. All the native

population of the town forsook their labors, and those of the surrounding

country journeyed to the city. Then the white folks had to stay indoors,

for every street was so packed with charging cavaliers and cavalieresses

that it was next to impossible to thread one’s way through the cavalcades

without getting crippled.

At night they feasted and the girls danced the lascivious hula hula–a

dance that is said to exhibit the very perfection of educated notion of

limb and arm, hand, head and body, and the exactest uniformity of

movement and accuracy of “time.” It was performed by a circle of girls

with no raiment on them to speak of, who went through an infinite variety

of motions and figures without prompting, and yet so true was their

“time,” and in such perfect concert did they move that when they were

placed in a straight line, hands, arms, bodies, limbs and heads waved,

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