Roughing It by Mark Twain

at least three of them before they offered any proportionate retaliation.

Near the shore we found “Cook’s Monument”–only a cocoanut stump, four

feet high and about a foot in diameter at the butt. It had lava boulders

piled around its base to hold it up and keep it in its place, and it was

entirely sheathed over, from top to bottom, with rough, discolored sheets

of copper, such as ships’ bottoms are coppered with. Each sheet had a

rude inscription scratched upon it–with a nail, apparently–and in every

case the execution was wretched. Most of these merely recorded the

visits of British naval commanders to the spot, but one of them bore this

legend:

“Near this spot fell

CAPTAIN JAMES COOK,

The Distinguished Circumnavigator, who Discovered these Islands

A. D. 1778.

After Cook’s murder, his second in command, on board the ship, opened

fire upon the swarms of natives on the beach, and one of his cannon balls

cut this cocoanut tree short off and left this monumental stump standing.

It looked sad and lonely enough to us, out there in the rainy twilight.

But there is no other monument to Captain Cook. True, up on the mountain

side we had passed by a large inclosure like an ample hog-pen, built of

lava blocks, which marks the spot where Cook’s flesh was stripped from

his bones and burned; but this is not properly a monument since it was

erected by the natives themselves, and less to do honor to the

circumnavigator than for the sake of convenience in roasting him.

A thing like a guide-board was elevated above this pen on a tall pole,

and formerly there was an inscription upon it describing the memorable

occurrence that had there taken place; but the sun and the wind have long

ago so defaced it as to render it illegible.

Toward midnight a fine breeze sprang up and the schooner soon worked

herself into the bay and cast anchor. The boat came ashore for us, and

in a little while the clouds and the rain were all gone. The moon was

beaming tranquilly down on land and sea, and we two were stretched upon

the deck sleeping the refreshing sleep and dreaming the happy dreams that

are only vouchsafed to the weary and the innocent.

CHAPTER LXXII.

In the breezy morning we went ashore and visited the ruined temple of the

last god Lono. The high chief cook of this temple–the priest who

presided over it and roasted the human sacrifices–was uncle to Obookia,

and at one time that youth was an apprentice-priest under him. Obookia

was a young native of fine mind, who, together with three other native

boys, was taken to New England by the captain of a whaleship during the

reign of Kamehameha I, and they were the means of attracting the

attention of the religious world to their country. This resulted in the

sending of missionaries there. And this Obookia was the very same

sensitive savage who sat down on the church steps and wept because his

people did not have the Bible. That incident has been very elaborately

painted in many a charming Sunday School book–aye, and told so

plaintively and so tenderly that I have cried over it in Sunday School

myself, on general principles, although at a time when I did not know

much and could not understand why the people of the Sandwich Islands

needed to worry so much about it as long as they did not know there was a

Bible at all.

Obookia was converted and educated, and was to have returned to his

native land with the first missionaries, had he lived. The other native

youths made the voyage, and two of them did good service, but the third,

William Kanui, fell from grace afterward, for a time, and when the gold

excitement broke out in California he journeyed thither and went to

mining, although he was fifty years old. He succeeded pretty well, but

the failure of Page, Bacon & Co. relieved him of six thousand dollars,

and then, to all intents and purposes, he was a bankrupt in his old age

and he resumed service in the pulpit again. He died in Honolulu in 1864.

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