Roughing It by Mark Twain

a double-barreled shotgun and persuaded him to buy it, anyhow. It was a

cheerful weapon–the “Allen.” Sometimes all its six barrels would go off

at once, and then there was no safe place in all the region round about,

but behind it.

We took two or three blankets for protection against frosty weather in

the mountains. In the matter of luxuries we were modest–we took none

along but some pipes and five pounds of smoking tobacco. We had two

large canteens to carry water in, between stations on the Plains, and we

also took with us a little shot-bag of silver coin for daily expenses in

the way of breakfasts and dinners.

By eight o’clock everything was ready, and we were on the other side of

the river. We jumped into the stage, the driver cracked his whip, and we

bowled away and left “the States” behind us. It was a superb summer

morning, and all the landscape was brilliant with sunshine. There was a

freshness and breeziness, too, and an exhilarating sense of emancipation

from all sorts of cares and responsibilities, that almost made us feel

that the years we had spent in the close, hot city, toiling and slaving,

had been wasted and thrown away. We were spinning along through Kansas,

and in the course of an hour and a half we were fairly abroad on the

great Plains. Just here the land was rolling–a grand sweep of regular

elevations and depressions as far as the eye could reach–like the

stately heave and swell of the ocean’s bosom after a storm. And

everywhere were cornfields, accenting with squares of deeper green, this

limitless expanse of grassy land. But presently this sea upon dry ground

was to lose its “rolling” character and stretch away for seven hundred

miles as level as a floor!

Our coach was a great swinging and swaying stage, of the most sumptuous

description–an imposing cradle on wheels. It was drawn by six handsome

horses, and by the side of the driver sat the “conductor,” the legitimate

captain of the craft; for it was his business to take charge and care of

the mails, baggage, express matter, and passengers. We three were the

only passengers, this trip. We sat on the back seat, inside. About all

the rest of the coach was full of mail bags–for we had three days’

delayed mails with us. Almost touching our knees, a perpendicular wall

of mail matter rose up to the roof. There was a great pile of it

strapped on top of the stage, and both the fore and hind boots were full.

We had twenty-seven hundred pounds of it aboard, the driver said–“a

little for Brigham, and Carson, and ‘Frisco, but the heft of it for the

Injuns, which is powerful troublesome ‘thout they get plenty of truck to

read.” But as he just then got up a fearful convulsion of his countenance

which was suggestive of a wink being swallowed by an earthquake, we

guessed that his remark was intended to be facetious, and to mean that we

would unload the most of our mail matter somewhere on the Plains and

leave it to the Indians, or whosoever wanted it.

We changed horses every ten miles, all day long, and fairly flew over the

hard, level road. We jumped out and stretched our legs every time the

coach stopped, and so the night found us still vivacious and unfatigued.

After supper a woman got in, who lived about fifty miles further on, and

we three had to take turns at sitting outside with the driver and

conductor. Apparently she was not a talkative woman. She would sit

there in the gathering twilight and fasten her steadfast eyes on a

mosquito rooting into her arm, and slowly she would raise her other hand

till she had got his range, and then she would launch a slap at him that

would have jolted a cow; and after that she would sit and contemplate the

corpse with tranquil satisfaction–for she never missed her mosquito; she

was a dead shot at short range. She never removed a carcase, but left

them there for bait. I sat by this grim Sphynx and watched her kill

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