Roughing It by Mark Twain

people throw away, and procures marketable tin and solder from them by

melting. He gathers up old bones and turns them into manure.

In California he gets a living out of old mining claims that white men

have abandoned as exhausted and worthless–and then the officers come

down on him once a month with an exorbitant swindle to which the

legislature has given the broad, general name of “foreign” mining tax,

but it is usually inflicted on no foreigners but Chinamen. This swindle

has in some cases been repeated once or twice on the same victim in the

course of the same month–but the public treasury was no additionally

enriched by it, probably.

Chinamen hold their dead in great reverence–they worship their departed

ancestors, in fact. Hence, in China, a man’s front yard, back yard, or

any other part of his premises, is made his family burying ground, in

order that he may visit the graves at any and all times. Therefore that

huge empire is one mighty cemetery; it is ridged and wringled from its

centre to its circumference with graves–and inasmuch as every foot of

ground must be made to do its utmost, in China, lest the swarming

population suffer for food, the very graves are cultivated and yield a

harvest, custom holding this to be no dishonor to the dead. Since the

departed are held in such worshipful reverence, a Chinaman cannot bear

that any indignity be offered the places where they sleep.

Mr. Burlingame said that herein lay China’s bitter opposition to

railroads; a road could not be built anywhere in the empire without

disturbing the graves of their ancestors or friends.

A Chinaman hardly believes he could enjoy the hereafter except his body

lay in his beloved China; also, he desires to receive, himself, after

death, that worship with which he has honored his dead that preceded him.

Therefore, if he visits a foreign country, he makes arrangements to have

his bones returned to China in case he dies; if he hires to go to a

foreign country on a labor contract, there is always a stipulation that

his body shall be taken back to China if he dies; if the government sells

a gang of Coolies to a foreigner for the usual five-year term, it is

specified in the contract that their bodies shall be restored to China in

case of death. On the Pacific coast the Chinamen all belong to one or

another of several great companies or organizations, and these companies

keep track of their members, register their names, and ship their bodies

home when they die. The See Yup Company is held to be the largest of

these. The Ning Yeong Company is next, and numbers eighteen thousand

members on the coast. Its headquarters are at San Francisco, where it

has a costly temple, several great officers (one of whom keeps regal

state in seclusion and cannot be approached by common humanity), and a

numerous priesthood. In it I was shown a register of its members, with

the dead and the date of their shipment to China duly marked. Every ship

that sails from San Francisco carries away a heavy freight of Chinese

corpses–or did, at least, until the legislature, with an ingenious

refinement of Christian cruelty, forbade the shipments, as a neat

underhanded way of deterring Chinese immigration. The bill was offered,

whether it passed or not. It is my impression that it passed. There was

another bill–it became a law–compelling every incoming Chinaman to be

vaccinated on the wharf and pay a duly appointed quack (no decent doctor

would defile himself with such legalized robbery) ten dollars for it.

As few importers of Chinese would want to go to an expense like that, the

law-makers thought this would be another heavy blow to Chinese

immigration.

What the Chinese quarter of Virginia was like–or, indeed, what the

Chinese quarter of any Pacific coast town was and is like–may be

gathered from this item which I printed in the Enterprise while reporting

for that paper:

CHINATOWN.–Accompanied by a fellow reporter, we made a trip through

our Chinese quarter the other night. The Chinese have built their

portion of the city to suit themselves; and as they keep neither

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